Home Projects: Ski Chair
3. The rear cross member is a 25-inch 2×4, cut at a 30-degree angle. Using three 4-inch drywall screws on either side, join the rear cross member to the rear legs, across the outside, 18 inches up from their base (Figure 1b).
4. Paint the entire frame with a couple of coats of dark-blue latex.
Back. For Fuller, the biggest challenge might have been dismantling and cutting the five pairs of fiberglass skis he was using for the chair’s back, seat, and armrests (Figure 2). “Removing the old bindings was pretty difficult,” he says. “They were epoxied, so they were screwed in pretty solid.” Because of the skis’ metal edges, Fuller opted for a power hacksaw over a skill saw.
1. Cut the tip ends of seven skis into varying lengths (Figure 2a): one 45-inch; two 44-inch; two 43-inch; two 42-inch.
2. Using three 4-inch drywall screws per ski, join ski sections vertically (and evenly spaced) to the rear cross member, flush with the bottom edge of that board (Figure 2b).
Seat. For the seat, Fuller recycled his cut ski tails.
1. Using two 1 5/8-inch drywall screws at either end of each ski tail (Figure 2c), join seven 20-inch pieces, laid horizontally, to the tops of the frame’s front and rear cross members.
Finishing touches. Fuller’s last structural task was to create the chair’s armrests.
1. Using two 1 5/8-inch drywall screws on either side of the chair, mount two 26-inch ski sections (tips included) onto the tops of the two front legs.
2. Using two 2-inch drywall screws from behind the chair’s back, join the outermost vertical slat on either side to the butt ends of the armrests.
3. Fuller finished off the whole project by smoothing the edges of the skis (back, seat, and arm rests) with 50-grit sandpaper — but only lightly. Why? “Because they were pretty dull from having been just stored away and not sharpened,” he says.
Click on link below to download and print a page of illustrations for this chair.