Massachusetts Food Trail: Chowder
As long as there have been fishing and cooking, there has been chowder. In one form or another, over many centuries, coastal cooks have served up some variation of local seafood simmered in a thick liquid—a dish more stew than soup. On the northwest coast of France, 17th-century fishermen cooked their concoctions in large cauldrons called chaudières, and some say this is the origin of the word “chowder.” Others say the word comes from jowter, a 16th-century Cornish term for “fishmonger.”
But no matter. Chowder is ours now, an object of fierce loyalty, and a creamy clam stew—thickened with potatoes and milk, seasoned with bacon and onions and brine, and served with common crackers—holds a particular place of honor in Massachusetts. Maybe it’s because the waters off Cape Cod are prime breeding grounds for the quahogs that are its central ingredient; maybe it’s because Bay Staters take pride in panning the clear-broth chowder of neighboring Rhode Island. All that matters is that they love it enough to produce some noteworthy renditions all over the state.
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I remember from growing up in New England that fish chowder was always done with a thin milk-based broth, not a thick one. When I moved to the midwest, I encountered the “thin mashed potato broth” that you reference. Has New England changed the consistency of its wonderful chowders to please the midwestern palate? I hope not.
Who cares about MA. Tell us about R.I. !!
My Grandfather and the rest of the Beach family in Ct. made their chowder with the clear broth and I would die for some now. Sadly they are all deceased and this Yankee never did pay attention or get the recipe. I prefer it rather than the milk based chowder.
My oldest daugther is my chowder girl. We live in upstate NY and this girl loves her New England Clam Chowder. She can tell u which place from here to New England has the best. And rigth know after last week in Andover, Ma. She will tell u it would be a small place in Rockport, Ma Named The Hot Dog Cafe’ has the best clam chowder. P.S. She did not gave us a taste of it.LOL
My mom made the best chowder in the world ! Dad shucked fresh clams for her and she added cheese and cooking wine at the end ! Miss ya mom and dad !!!
My mom used to make wonderful fish or clam chowder made with milk, not cream, and not thickened. It was the best. I still prefer this to the thick chowder.
The BEST chowder is made from quahaugs as they have a very “sea-taste” that cannot be beat. We always lived on the island of Saquish, off the coast of Plymouth, and the children would go out digging on the flats. The broth is left un-thickened with only whole milk and some butter. Try it…it is WONDERFUL !!
The Best fish chowder is made using Maine Haddock, Maine grown potatoes, seasoned and cooked slowly in clam juice, and chicken broth. When cooled add half and half, than reheat, can’t be beat.
I ,too, like many others like “thin” chowder made with whole milk. The chowder that is thickened has almost a floury taste which I find unaaceptable, The Lobster Pound at Lincolnville Beach, ME makes tasty fish chowder in the thin style, Also on Cape Cod. the best clam chowder I ever had was at the FLUME Restaurant in Mashpee when it was in business, They definitely knew how to get the best out of quahogs! Boy, do I miss that place!
I too, prefer a thin broth. My all time favorite comes from “Petey’s Summertime” in No. Hampton, NH.(or is it Rye?) Anyway, I have relocated to SC, and when in NE, that’s on my “must” list! “You can take the girl out of NE, but you can’t take NE out of the girl!!”
Now how about doing Rhode Island chowder with its clear broth.