In Review: Briny Bursts of Flavor
Locals told us about the Brewster Fish House, a Cape Cod gem that has recently seen a change of chefs. Martha Kane is in the kitchen of this retail fish market-turned-hotspot restaurant. We wondered what would separate this eatery from the hundreds of others that dot the Cape.
Could be the chowder or the lobster bisque: Both are subtle and silky-rich, the chowder layered with sweet and briny bursts of fresh clams and the bisque laced with a bit of sherry and chunks of meat. Or perhaps it’s the local flounder dusted with fines herbes in a tomato-and-fennel broth. Or maybe the garlicky clams with pasta–after sampling that dish one night, we ordered two more to take home.
If you can break from the beach at lunch, indulge in the fried-seafood options–clams, oysters, scallops, or calamari. Whichever you choose, it’s fresh from local waters, and the kitchen respects its handy source of ingredients. Get there early and bring patience or a book; this spot doesn’t take reservations and the dining room is small.
Brewster Fish House
2208 Main St., Brewster, MA
Lunch entrées: from $8
Dinner entrées: from $18