The Sunnyside, Warren, Rhode Island
It’s a water-view breakfast spot out of central casting: a gray-clapboard building facing the marshy coast of the Warren River. In warm weather, customers linger at outdoor tables on a long dock bordered by colorful flowerboxes. Inside, it’s all white wainscoting and ceilings and endless windows.
The Sunnyside is a breakfast-and-lunch-only spot, more elegant than most, specializing in classics with a spin: wood-grilled flank steak and eggs, buttermilk soufflé pancakes, baked raisin-bread French toast. Most days you’ll find chef Joe Simone behind the counter, smiling and chatting with customers as he works.
There’s a lovely attention to detail here. Slices of cornbread arrive warm–and not just with small terrines of homemade peach and strawberry jam but with two knives, so as not to mix them. Our favorite dish: Simone’s “Dutch Baby”–a light and fluffy oven-baked pancake topped with generous chunks of ham, drizzled with melted Monterey Jack, Parmesan, and bright-green chives. Served with warm maple syrup, it’s a perfect and flavorful marriage of savory and sweet.
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