Bleeding hearts add a touch of delicate beauty to the yard.

Looking to accent the shady areas of your garden or outdoor landscape this summer? There are several shade-loving plants—both annual and perennial as well as  flowering and non-flowering— to consider. They come in a variety of sizes and textures, and all thrive in darker, moist and wet conditions. Here are my picks for the ten best shade-loving plants that are sure to add interest and beauty to those low-light areas of your yard.

1. Lily of the Valley
   Although these shade-loving plants only flower for a few weeks early in the season,they are well worth the effort.  The small, fragrant,white,bell-shaped flowers are dainty and a seasonal delight.
2. Ferns
   Native and zone hardy ferns lend a natural appeal to shade garden and woodland areas. Ferns are naturally very  disease and pest resistant and require very little care. There are many varieties to choose from such as the Maiden hair fern which is light and wispy to the Cinnamon fern with a rusty brown hue.
3. Lobelia
   Small dense deep blue flowers that bloom throughout the summer add a pop of rich color to darker areas.
4. Inpatiens
   An annual accent to shade gardens, these  flowering  plants can be found in red, white and pink.
5. Creeping Myrtle
   An evergreen groundcover, this plant produces small  green leaves that resemble ivy with little blue flowers. Fast growing and hardy, it thrives in almost all soil types.
6. Forget-Me-Not
   A low growing annual plant that also sports beautiful tiny blue flowers and thrives in damp conditions
7. Hosta
   Hostas consist of healthy green leaves that grow close together in bunches with shoots that flower in white bell shapes. These traditional shade-loving plants come in a variety of  sizes and hues—including variegated species.
8. Bleeding Hearts
   A Victorian favorite—delicate, beautiful and romantic—bleeding hearts hang from vine-like leaves. The heart colors come in shades of light pink, white and fuchsia.
9. Begonia
   An annual with heavy, crinkly textured leaves in dark maroon and green hues and periodic flowers are right at home in any shady area.
10. North American Bee Balm
    This perennial plant can grow up to  a few feet tall, and has a pleasant smell and clusters of red flowers that attract bees and butterflies.

The post 10 Best Shade-Loving Plants | Gardening Advice appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Rosa Rugosas thrive in New England’s unpredictable climate.

Growing roses in New England can be tricky due to the varied and often unpredictable weather that this region is known for. Roses that are strong and planted properly, however, can be surprisingly low maintenance once they are established. I’ll share three great roses to plant which are hardy enough to survive — and even thrive — in New England’s sometimes harsh climate. I’ll also give simple instructions for getting these bushes off to a healthy start for many years of future enjoyment to come.

Rosa Rugosa
Also known as beach roses, these fast growing bushes that spread quickly and are covered with continuously blooming pink or white flowers. They thrive in almost all soil types—from sandy beaches to road side fences. Once planted these roses require very little attention.

Climbing Roses
A trellis hanging heavy with fragrant roses is a breathtaking and romantic sight, and one that has been seen in new England gardens for centuries. There are dozens of climbing roses to choose from. Consult your local nursery for available proven winner options.

Tea Roses
Originally hybrids from China, these roses have evolved and have been successfully cultivated in North Eastern gardens for many years, though they may require special framed protection in the winter. They are larger than most climbing roses and are very fragrant. Traditionally found in shades of pink and yellow they are also available in white and red.

a trellis hanging heavy with fragrant roses is a breathtaking and romantic sight.

Instructions to Plant Roses

• Tools and supplies to Plant a Rose Bush
• Shovel
• Bucket
• Hose or watering can
• Spade
• Rose bush
• Bone meal
• Aged cow manure
• Peat
• Clean soil
• Mulch

Recipe to add to the ground soil for healthy roses: Mix together equal amounts (approximately 1/2 cup of each for a medium to large size bush-less for smaller plantings) of peat, composted cow manure, bone meal and clean soil.

How to Plant Roses

1. Prepare ahead of time a mixture of equal amounts (approximately 1/2 cup of each for a medium to large size bush-less for smaller plantings) of peat, composted cow manure, bone meal and clean soil.
2. Choose a sunny location and dig a hole that is double the width and depth of the root ball.
3. Gently remove the rose plant from the container and loosen the root ball.
4. Place the rose plant in the hole so the entire root ball is evenly standing under ground. The top of the root ball should be flush to the top of the ground.
5. Sprinkle the mixture of bone meal, soil, manure and peat into the hole around the shrub and fill the remaining space with clean, rich soil. Cover the top of the root ball with approximately 2 inches of soil, being careful to ensure that the stem or stalk of the plant is not covered with dirt.
6. Spread a few inches of mulch around the plant and water thoroughly every few days.
7. To increase and encourage new rose bud growth, snip off weak, faded and past peak blooms as they appear.
8. In the fall be sure to mulch deeply and wrap fragile shrubs in burlap or cover with a wooden pitched box to protect from heavy snow and ice-unless of course it is a Rosa Rugosa— commonly known as the beach rose. These bushes are hardy and can survive just about anything.

If you’re looking for roses to plant in your zone, you can’t go wrong with these three varieties. Try it out and let me know how it goes.

The post Easy Roses to Plant and Care for in New England appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

1. Age plant pots with this simple moss recipe: Mix equal parts of live or dried moss with buttermilk or yogurt. Blend well and brush on terracotta pots or stone walls and walkways. Moss should appear within a matter of weeks. Or thoughtfully gather clumps of living moss from the forest and tuck bits and pieces into shady walkway areas, brickwork and stonewalls.
2. Incorporate a rustic or antique architectural element such as a section of an iron gate, a garden trellis, a wagon wheel, twig arbor or vintage garden equipment like a wheel barrel full of flowers. Look for pieces in salvage yards and antique stores.
3. Build a simple stone-edged path or small loose-rock wall that you can add rocks to as you come across them when digging in the garden, hiking or doing yard work.
4. Create a rustic path with the materials you have at hand.  If you live near the ocean, collect clam shells that have washed ashore and crush them to line a path or walkway.  Use leftover wood chips from landscaping projects or surplus tile and bricks from  home improvement jobs or salvage yards.
5. Re-purpose antique farm items such as milk and maple syrup pails and animal feeding troughs as planters and container gardens.
6. Set up an impromptu settee under a mature fruit tree by nestling weathered outdoor furniture under the canopy of leaves.
7. Landscape around an ancient tall tree or large boulder to accentuate the focal points that naturally anchor the scenery. 
8. Resist removing or transplanting mature trees and plantings that are in good health and pose no safety threat.
9. Chose traditional garden flowers such as delphinium and vintage garden ornaments and birdhouses to add charm.
10. Install and use a sundial or compass rose.

Remember, your garden is your sanctuary and your palette to work with to express yourself. Be creative, have fun and enjoy the fruits of your labor while honoring the timeless art and history of gardening the process. And if you have timeless gardening tips you’d like to share, we’d love to hear about them!

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Using an outdoor garden cloche throughout the spring is an effective way to protect small plants from unpredictable weather while getting a jump-start on the growing season. Using them again in the fall can extend the life of your garden.

A glass garden cloche can be used to protect plants from the elements.

The bell-shaped design of the cloche efficiently reflects and distributes light and allows the heat to surround plants for longer periods of time, thus maximizing ideal growing conditions. The garden cloche also envelops the plant with moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering.

Garden cloches act as incubators for new sprouts and tender seedlings, protecting baby plants from harsh temperatures, frost, strong wind, torrential rain and woodland animals who love to munch on tender new greens.

When using a cloche for gardening, it’s important to prevent the plant from overheating.  It is best to use a cloche in the spring and fall only, when temperatures are not too hot. When cloches are used in the heat of the summer,  there’s the risk of too much light and heat scorching — or worse killing — the plants enclosed in the dome.

Today, cloches are making a comeback in the gardening community.  Simple cloches can be made easily by either placing a large mouth vase over tiny plants or by using recycled clear plastic bottles as a glass cloche substitute (see directions below).

Houseplants best suited for cloche growing are Baby Tears, African Violets and Begonias. Any outdoor vegetable seedlings will benefit from the use of a cloche early on to get then established.

Instructions to make a garden cloche from recycled plastic bottles:

1. Save large clear plastic water and soft drink containers with caps.
2. Rinse the empty containers thoroughly and allow to air dry.
3. Cut the bottom portion of the container off with sharp scissors allowing for adequate height at the top of the bottle.
4. Re-cap the bottle top.
5. Place the bell shaped top over seedlings.

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Repotting houseplants is an essential component to keeping plants healthy.

Supplies Needed to Repot Houseplants

• A pot with drainage holes that is at least 1/3 larger on all sides than the root ball of the plant
• Small pruning tool or scissors
• Clean potting soil mix

Gently shake the soil loose from the root ball.

Instructions to Repot Houseplants

1. Moisten the soil in the pot of the plant that is to be re-potted and gently remove the plant from the current container.
2. Use a small pruning tool or sharp scissors to snip any roots that may be tangled and sticking out through the drainage holes. Avoid over snipping.
3. Loosen the root ball by shaking it gently and using your fingers in a tickling motion to separate tightly clumped roots, being careful to not damage the roots in the process.
4. Line the new container bottom with a layer of clean potting mix approximately 3 inches deep.
5. Place the plant in the new container and fill the sides of the container with potting mix. Sprinkle an inch or so of potting mix on the top of the root ball and lightly water the plant.

It’s as simple as that! Your plant is now ready to flourish in its fresh soil medium and new pot. It will require less watering now that it is in an environment that will retain and store water longer.

The post Repot Houseplants | How to Transfer Plants into Larger Containers appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Jade is one of the easiest houseplants to keep alive, even if you have a brown thumb.

1. African Violet: Fuzzy leaves surround clusters of tiny white, pink or purple flowers.  Great in terrariums, these old fashioned favorites require damp soil and a potting medium designed for orchids.

2. Aluminum Plant: This plant has shiny dark green leaves and sprouts heart shaped pink or crimson flowers with a yellow center when in bloom. A great plant choice for Valentine’s Day gift giving, it remains visually pleasing even when it is not in bloom.

3. Baby Tears: These delicate vibrant green flowers have tiny clusters of leaves resembling tears—hence the name. They make a subtle statement when placed in plain pots as the plants texture takes center stage.

4.  Air Plants: Perhaps the easiest plants to have around, air plants absorb moisture from the environment and require nothing but low light and air. Because they do not need a pot or soil, these plants are versatile and may be placed on a shelf, in a seashell, on a window sill, desktop, and can even rest on electronics such as a television or computer. They also come in a range of interesting sizes, shapes and forms.

5. Snake Plant: Also known as “mother-in-law’s tongue,” it’s so named for its sword like appearance and sharp tips. This plant is a member of the succulent family and requires bright light and minimal watering. A fun gift-plant for a bride-to-be—with an explanation of the plants representation of course!

6. Cat Grass: Also called oat grass, this non-toxic plant resembles a miniature lawn and is simple to grow from seeds. It requires adequate light and moist soil.  It is an interesting plant to have around the home as cats, small pets such as rabbits, and sometimes even dogs like to nibble on the tips.

7. Ferns: All houseplant types of ferns are non-toxic. Lush and light, ferns require adequate lighting and lots of moisture.  If your home is dry, misting a few times per day may be necessary, but this airy forest dweller is well worth the extra effort. Traditional watering is not recommended as ferns reproduce with rhizoids and do not have typical roots.

8. Hens and Chicks: The most well-known of all succulents, hens and chicks are a joy to grow and watch as they self-propagate and spread. Each “hen” has a  cluster of “chicks” tiny rosettes versions of the mother hen. They often have thin hair like fibers covering them and can be found in hues of green and green with pink and rose colored hues.

9. Jade: Jade, a non-toxic succulent that is said to bring good luck, requires very little care. Lots of exposure to bright light and occasional misting will keep this beauty green and plump.

10. Spider Plant: A fun and easy plant to root and care for, the curly elongated leaves of the spider plant can be either solid or variegated, and they do indeed resemble a spider. When a spider plant sprouts a flexible stick-like shoot, small white flowers will appear shortly before “baby” spiders grow from it.  When roots eventually appear on the babies, gently pluck from the shoot and insert directly in to well watered, but not muddy soil. Group several babies together to form plants of various sizes.

The post 10 Best Non-Toxic Houseplants: How to Care for and Identify Them appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Spider plants are one of the houseplants that don’t require a lot of light to thrive.

10 Low Light Houseplants

Ferns: Ferns thrive in shady areas in the wild and will actually burn and die if left in direct sun or high light sources. Airy and woodsy, these plants are a low light classic.

Snake Plant: Sometimes called “Mother-in-Law’s Tongue,” this low light houseplant can grow to be a few feet high and add height and balance when placed in rooms without direct sunlight.

Spider Plant: Spider plants prefer low light and can go for long periods of time without hydration only to spring back into great shape when watered.

Anthurium: The anthurium plant requires low light and infrequent watering.  This plant produces beautiful red blooms that sprout at the tip of a stem punctuating the green foliage back drop. They also serve as great focal points.

Baby Tears: A carpet of tiny trailing green leaves, this houseplant thrives in low light environments but does require a moist medium.

Begonia: With its crinkled, wavy textured leaves that may or may not have a fuzzy outer layer, begonias can be transplanted outside in the spring.

Orchids: These delicate plants are surprisingly easy to grow and prefer a steady climate of low light and the occasional misting.

Bonsai: A great Feng Shui plant, certain bonsais are the perfect fit for a room that lacks direct sunlight. There are several types of bonsais to choose from, and  it’s worth the time spent researching them to find a low light bonsai that will make a statement in an otherwise plant-free room.

Bamboo: This water plant looks lovely grouped in a tall cylindrical vase in any room. Anchor the vase with smooth river stones for a Zen flair.

African Violet: A great terrarium plant with tiny, delicate, pink, white or purple flowers, the African violet is right at home in a room temperature climate with adequate light conditions. Keep soil moist.

The post Gardening | The 10 Best Low Light Houseplants appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Pothos (left) and Wandering Jew are two easy houseplants to care for.

Air Plants
Perhaps the easiest houseplant to care for, air plants require nothing but low light and air as they absorb moisture from the environment. Because they do not require soil and potting, these plants are versatile and may be placed on a shelf, in a seashell, on a window sill, desk or  even on top of electronics such as the television or computer. They also come in a range of interesting sizes, shapes and forms.

Bamboo
Said to bring good luck, the bamboo plant lives and thrives in water alone. It  looks great bunched in vases, Asian inspired containers or in a water garden.

Staghorn Fern
A relative of the Orchid family, this plant looks like it’s namesake of deer horns and even has  a soft velvety surface that traps moisture for the plant and eliminates the need for traditional watering. It’s one of the few plants that can be mounted on a wall as it requires only indirect light and occasional misting.

Cat Grass
Also called oat grass, this crop of sprouts resembles a miniature lawn and is simple to grow from seeds. It requires good light and moist soil.  It is an interesting plant to have around the home, as cats, small pets such as rabbits and sometimes even dogs like to nibble on the tips, which may keep them from trying to eat your other houseplants.

Spider Plant
These plants look great hanging, especially when they flower and eventually sprout “babies.”  They’re also fun and easy to root and care for . The elongated leaves of the spider plant can be either solid green or variegated green and white, and they do indeed resemble a spider. Exposure to indirect light and moist soil are the only care requirements.

Ivy
The ivy plant is an old-fashioned favorite.  Its trails of pointed leaves look lovely cascading from a pot. The long trails may also be wound around a tiny trellis or frame. Medium lighting and occasional misting are the only requirements.

Wandering Jew
With its mixture of deep purple and green foliage, the Wandering Jew is a variegated, trailing plant that offsets all green houseplants nicely.

Pothos
Arguably the most common houseplant in America, this trailing plant is shiny with medium sized heart shaped leaves in varying shades of green.  Often seen wound around stakes, trailing over frames or hung from high shelves, these plants grow fast and are very forgiving.  Adequate light and moist soil are the only requirements to keep them healthy. 

Traditional Cactus
Traditional cactus plants require very bright light and loose sandy soil.  Many Cactus plants will bloom once a year. Watering is needed only once every few months.

Christmas Cactus
Known to bloom around Christmas time, the Christmas cactus sometimes blooms as early as October and may bloom twice in one year.  This jointed, semi-prickly cactus plant has sporadic spikes and tiny fuchsia or white flowers when in bloom. These plants require nothing but bright light and very little watering—once a month is often enough.

The post Top 10 Easy Houseplants appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Houseplant Tip: Place plants in a south facing window or under an artificial light source for at least one full hour a day.

The 10 Best Winter Tips for Houseplants

1. Place plants in a south-facing window or under a light source for at least one full hour a day.
2. Make sure plants have adequate drainage.  Never use plant pots without proper drainage or drain holes, as trapped water will lead to root rot
3. Rotate the sides of plant pots every week or so to ensure plants get equal lighting on all sides.
4. Don’t over water. In most cases, using enough water to moisten the soil is adequate. Plants such as succulents do not require regular watering. For succulents, a thorough misting once a week should be enough.
   
5. Don’t let plants dry out completely between watering. Soil that is too dry can cause stress  on plants and may even kill some.
6. Trim and deadhead houseplants to avoid the “leggy” look and to remove past-peak foliage.
7. Re-pot root-bound plants. If roots are growing out from the bottom of your plant pot’s drainage holes or on top of the soil, this is a good indication that your plant is outgrowing the pot. To re-pot, gently remove the plant and loosen the root ball. Find a container that has suitable drainage and allows for at least  1/3 of the entire space to be free of roots. Fill partially with clean potting soil and gently place the plant in. Cover the roots with more clean potting soil.  Water lightly.
8. Add a few Tablespoons of compost once a month to potted plants to boost the soil’s nutrient content.
9. Consider moving some plants into the bathroom.  Bathrooms are ideal environments for plants because of the high humidity from the shower.
10. Use the correct size pot.  A plant should have enough room to completely cover the roots with soil and allow for additional root growth. A pot that is too small will become root bound and require frequent watering.  A pot that is too large requires additional watering to just reach the roots and actually slows the growth process of the plant because most of the plant’s energy is focused on establishing roots rather than nurturing the plant.

Following these winter tips for houseplants will keep them healthy and thriving throughout the year.

The post Houseplant Tips for Winter appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

It’s hard to imagine a winter without beautiful evergreen conifer trees providing us with constant protection, beauty and gifts to see us through the cold months ahead.

Conifer trees can be identified by their needle-like foliage and cones.

Conifers are evergreen trees that produce pinecones and remain alive and full bodied in all seasons. Most are part of the pine tree family and all have needles on their branches. Familiar species of New England evergreen conifers are hemlock, spruce, blue spruce, fir, and white pine. It is not surprising that many gardeners choose to incorporate these beautiful and beneficial trees into their landscapes.

Not only are these evergreen conifer trees beautiful in the bleak winter months—they also serve as a wind, sound and air pollution barrier for our homes. They provide much needed shelter for many species of wildlife—from the  grey squirrels who build their nests deep within the top limbs to the white tailed deer that bed down together under the wide branches at the base of ancient evergreens in stormy weather. And, of course, the trees are homes to dozens of species of native non-migrating birds that take cover in their branches. In fact, it’s quite common for several species of birds to co-exist peacefully in the same tree.

The pinecones that drop from conifers in the fall and throughout the winter are yet another gift of the magnificent conifer evergreen trees. The cones can be found in a variety of shapes and sizes depending on the species of tree they originate from. There are tiny cones that are no more than an inch long and ½ inch wide to the 4-6 inch curved, sap saturated, sticky ones and the desirable 2-3 inch round and wide medium sized cones that are perfect for displaying in baskets and making crafts and wreaths. One walk in the woods can yield numerous pinecones—and when dried out—the cones make excellent fire starters for wood stoves and fire places as well as bringing a woodsy feeling to the inside.

The New England woods are full of formidable native evergreen trees, allowing those of us who call this region home a constant reminder of all that is alive throughout the year—even when we are in a deep freeze in the dead of winter.

The post The Benefits of Evergreen Conifer Trees appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Winterberry Branches

Typically a bold red, the berries  sometimes take on a reddish orange hue and are highly sought after by landscape decorators and homeowners in late November and December. They are incorporated in traditional outside holiday decorating in wreaths, urns, and swags. The abundant berries are harvested from the wild in New England for retail sale during the holiday season, although winterberries are stunning in their own right throughout the winter in contrast with evergreen trees and snow.

Not only are these berry bushes beautiful, they also attract and provide a significant food source to native birds and wildlife. Because of their high visibility in the winter landscape, they are very easy for birds to spot.

Often you will find several species of birds congregating on a winterberry bush for a feast. In fact, over forty known species of North American birds rely on these berries as a part of their food source. Mammals such as moose, deer and rabbits eat the stems and leaves in the winter as well. It is important to note that although this shrub species is an abundant source of food for wildlife, the berries are poisonous and extremely toxic to humans if consumed. It is best to keep the berries away from small children.

Because of their beauty and versatility, many gardeners are now choosing to incorporate winterberry bushes into their landscape design, particularly those who want to encourage wildlife into their backyards or those who are trying to fill in barren landscape with native plant and tree species to provide a natural border or buffer around the landscape.

Blue Sky and WInterberry Shrub

Tips for Gathering Wild Winterberry Branches

You will need sharp pruners or floral scissors. Take a large cardboard box with you to carry and transport the branches. Cut stems individually at an angle, leaving at least five inches of branch with berry nodules intact. Be sure to thoughtfully gather stems from all over the bush. Do not clear cut or strip a bush of the berry branches. Always ask permission before gathering berries that are not on your own property.

The post The Beautiful Winterberry Bush appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Miniature Terrarium

1. Packets of harvested seeds from your own flowers and veggies with planting instructions and tips. Personalize the packets with scrapbooking supplies for an added touch. Get instructions on how to dry seeds.
2. Lavender sachets and/or packets of dried herbs with recommendations on how to use them. Decorate the packets with scrapbooking supplies and tie festive ribbon on the Lavender sachets. Learn how to grow an indoor herb garden.
3. Canned veggies, fruits, pickles, relish, jams and jellies made from your own garden produce. Cut squares of scrap fabric with pinking shears and tie to the top of the jar for a seasonal appeal.
4. Make a gourd birdhouse. If you are artistic or crafty, consider painting the gourd or etching designs on it.
5. Pressed or dried flower arrangements from your garden. These look nice matted in a rustic frame. Follow our instructions on how to press flowers.
6. A basket of bulbs that includes planting instructions and a homemade gift tag.
7. Framed photographs of your favorite blooms. A framed photo of the recipient’s birth flower is a very meaningful and personal gift.
8. Miniature terrariums. Add a seasonal touch such as an elf figurine or miniature sleigh to the terrarium. Learn how to make a miniature terrarium.
9. Be a Garden Angel! A handwritten offer to mentor a novice gardener or an offer to help plant or harvest for a seasoned gardener or a person who loves to garden but may not be able to is truly a gift from the heart.
10. Make a gift basket containing a sampling of a few of the above suggestions.

Find more ideas on how to decorate for the holidays with garden style.

Wishing you peace, joy, love and happiness for a bountiful holiday season and year to come.

The post 10 Holiday Gift Ideas from the Garden appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

You can display a live Christmas tree in a planter indoors our out.

Tips to Care for a Live Christmas Tree

1. Gradually acclimate the tree to the indoors by letting it sit in a garage or enclosed porch for a day or two before moving it inside.
2. Choose the coolest area of the room to display it.
3. Keep the roots moist but not saturated. If the tree isn’t in a pot with soil, place the root ball of the tree in the middle of a galvanized bucket and cover the roots with soil and rocks to stabilize it.
4. Decorate it as you would any Christmas tree. It is okay to prune branches.
5. When the season is over gradually re-introduce the tree to the outside by letting it sit in a garage or enclosed porch for a few days before placing it outside.
6. If you intend to plant the tree in the ground in the spring, wait until the ground has thawed, then dig a hole large enough to set the tree’s root ball in and remove any burlap that may be tied around it. Loosen the roots before placing the tree in the hole. Fill the hole with soil and water.
7. If you are planning to keep your tree in a planter, make sure the root ball is free of any burlap wrapping and that the planter is at least one foot around and two feet deep to allow for root growth.

Garden Center’s and nurseries have a variety of living evergreen’s to choose from

Garden centers and nurseries have a variety of living evergreens to choose from in all sizes, and a nursery near you can best recommend a tree that will do well in your indoor and outdoor living environment. Be sure to look for a live Christmas tree that comes in a large container filled with soil, which will eliminate the need to use a tree stand or stabilizer.

The post Tips to Care for a Live Christmas Tree appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Cranberry Bush

Fall cranberry crops may be planted in New England during October and November. Plant a spring crop between April and May. It’s not too late to plant a cranberry bed this season, as long as you get the plants in the ground before a deep frost.

Cranberry Crates

Instructions to Plant a Cranberry Bed

Materials to Plant a Cranberry Bed

• Shovel
• 1 lb. of peat moss
• ½ lb. of bone meal
• One year old cranberry cuttings or small plants. These may be purchased from greenhouses or divided from larger cranberry beds.

How to Plant a Cranberry Bed

1. Clear an area 2-4 feet in length and width and 6-8 inches deep. Set the soil aside for later use.
2. Mix approximately a pound of peat moss and a ½ pound of bone meal together and put it in the bottom of the hole.
3. Wet the entire open bed and then place the cranberry plants in the bed. Do not over-saturate the soil with water. Space plants approximately 8 inches apart.
4. Cover the exposed roots with the soil that was removed from digging the bed.
5. Water the plants frequently until the first deep frost. Cranberry leaves are evergreen and can dry out completely and die if the ground freezes and there is not enough moisture in the medium. Do not flood or saturate the plants.
6. Before the first expected deep frost, Cover the bed with mulch or pine needles.
7. Remove mulch in the spring after the danger of a frost has passed and keep the plants moist. Berries may or may not appear the first year or two. The bushes are alive and healthy though, and eventually the fruit will appear.

Moody Farm Cranberry Bog Truck

The post How to Plant a Cranberry Bed appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Mums: Bring in potted mums before autumn night frosts. Display on a plant stand or end table. The plants may be moved back outside during the day as long as daytime temperatures stay above freezing. If the potted mums are too large to easily move inside, simply cover with old sheets or pillowcases at night when a frost is expected, and remove the sheets when the sun warms the air in the morning.

Potted Mums may be brought inside at night.

Kale: These interesting purplish clusters may be brought indoors long after the fall and displayed indefinitely in cool , sunny spots.

Bittersweet: Bittersweet is an invasive berry vine that — although pretty — can be messy due to the soft make up of the berries when used in indoor flower arrangements.  However, bittersweet is right at home in outdoor arrangements such as in urns, baskets and woven around twig wreaths or fences. Read more about the beautiful bittersweet vine.

Bittersweet vine woven around a simple twig wreath.

Flower Arrangement in a Pumpkin: Hollow out a leftover Halloween pumpkin and insert a small vase. Fill the vase ¾ full with water.  Snip clusters of chrysanthemums to add to the vase.  For added fall appeal accent with curly willow twigs or bright orange Chinese lantern plants.

Nature in a Bowl: The next time you go for a walk, be on the lookout for fallen pine cones, chestnuts, dry milkweed pods, rosehips and wayward acorns. Fill a basket with a collection of these plant gifts from nature and display on a coffee table. For added scent appeal, toss a few cinnamon sticks and cloves into the mix.

A bowl of collected seed pods and pine cones.

Dried Hydrangeas: Hydrangeas dry quickly and retain their structure.  When dry, they take on a brownish hue perfect for fall décor. They look lovely in a rustic pitcher or large pottery vase, and once thoroughly dry can be used year after year.

Corn Husks and Indian Corn: Cut groupings of corn husks to fit in a large vase for a centerpiece display. Tie the husks together with burlap, hemp string or raffia.  Use floral wire to twist colorful ears of dried Indian corn on to the husk cluster.

The post Decorating with Fall Flowers and Plants | Tips to Display Your Favorite Flowers and Plants appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

This is the perfect time of year to collect acorns to start growing new oak trees over the winter. Acorns that have dropped earlier in the fall are usually the weaker or worm infested seeds.  Late dropping acorns (October and November) are typically healthier.
A healthy acorn specimen suitable for growing an oak tree is one that is plump with a cap that is loose and/or easily removed. A naturally split or cracked acorn is fine, but do not collect damaged, crushed or moldy acorns. Avoid acorns with a pinhole on the shell.  This is a sure sign that a worm has bored into the nut.

After inspecting the collected acorns, place them in a mixture of ½ peat and ½ loose barley in a clear zip-lock plastic food storage bag. Do not crowd the acorns. Acorns should be loose in the medium and the bag should not be more than ½ full. Seal the bag and store it in the refrigerator throughout the winter.  Periodically check the moisture level of the medium. The medium should be damp but not wet. During the winter expect the acorns will split open and white sprouts to appear and grow. This could happen at any time during storage.

Collect acorns in late October and early November

In early Spring (Late March to early April) fill individual plant pots with clean potting soil.  Place the sprouted acorns horizontally in the soil about 1 ½  inches deep and water.  Place the pots in a South facing window or under an artificial light source and keep the soil moist. During the next few weeks, the acorns will sprout into a sapling, with a few tiny, yet visible oak leaves. As the trees grow, transplant them into larger containers. Do not allow the trees to become root bound, or dried out.

Oak trees provide cooling shade in the summer.

You may keep your trees in plant pots indefinitely, or until they have reached a desired size to plant outside. Before planting them in the ground, introduce the trees slowly to the outdoors by placing them in cooler areas such as on a porch or in an unheated sunroom, shed or garage  for a few days at a time. Transplant them outside in the early fall before danger of frost.

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Plant bulbs in the fall and enjoy a beautiful display of color in spring and summer.

Instructions for How to Plant Fall Bulbs

Fall bulbs should be planted six to eight weeks before the ground freezes. Never plant bulbs after the ground has frozen.

Before purchasing bulbs, check the US Hardiness zone chart to see if the bulbs you have chosen will thrive in your area. Most regions of New England are considered either zone 5 or zone 6. Grape hyacinths, daffodils, iris, tulips and daylilies are all excellent choices for New England’s climate.

Choose areas to group bulbs ahead of time, taking into consideration the sunlight exposure the flowers will receive to grow well.

Turn the soil when you plant bulbs in fall.

Dig and turn the soil where you plan to plant bulbs.  Add compost to the prepared beds to give the bulbs a nutrient boost. 

Bulb holes should be approximately 3- 4 inches deep for small bulbs, and up to 8 inches deep for larger bulbs. Space the holes according to the directions on the packaging or 2-3 inches apart if no directions are included.

Place one bulb in each hole with the pointed tip of the bulb facing upward. Group bulbs in clusters for a burst of color and visual impact.

Fill the holes with soil and water lightly. Avoid fertilizing newly planted bulbs as it may burn or damage the plant. Bulbs are naturally compacted with all the nutrition and energy needed to flourish.

Once your bulbs are in the ground or “put to bed” for the winter, nature will take care of the rest. You, too, can cozy up for the season knowing that you will have the perennial gift of flowers to look forward to in the spring.

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Gourds look great grouped together in a basket.

Instructions on How to Preserve Gourds

1. Harvest miniature gourds when they are mature and not any sooner. If gourds are harvested before they are done growing they are more susceptible to rot. A good indicator that a gourd is ready to pick is when the stem is dry and turning brown.
   

   Pumpkins and gourds are ready to harvest when the stems and tendrils turn brown.

2. Cut the gourds from the vine leaving at least 2” of stem. The stem will aid in wicking the moisture from the gourds.
3. Gently wash the gourds in a mild soapy dish detergent and rinse thoroughly.
4. Wipe the gourds dry and spray lightly with a household disinfectant or mist with rubbing alcohol.
5. Space the prepared gourds on a few layers of newspaper in a dark, warm, dry area (Such as an attic) with good ventilation. Replace the damp newspaper every few days, turning the gourds when you do. Heat accelerates drying and darkness will preserve the gourd’s color. You can also place the gourds under a fan to speed up the drying process. Repeat these steps for the next several weeks until the gourds are noticeably lighter and you are able to hear the seeds rattling inside them when you pick them up.
6. When the gourds are completely dry, use a paste wax or clear shellac to seal and protect.

Ideas to Display Gourds

Create a gourd birdhouse. Follow the drying instructions above. Puncture a hole in the dry gourd and use a pumpkin cutter to saw out an opening about the size of a golf ball. Twist wire around the stem to hang. A wooden dowel may also be inserted under the hole as a perch. Simply puncture a hole directly underneath the cut opening and work the dowel in gently.

A gourd that has been hollowed out and decorated makes a great bird house.

Display flowers in gourds and pumpkins. Mums and Kale look great when placed inside a pumpkin that has been hollowed out to fit the dimensions of the plant pot.

Create Thanksgiving place settings. Follow the gourd drying and preserving directions above. Slice a small slit in the top of the gourd and slide a handmade cardboard place setting in the opening.

For another fun craft project, follow our instructions on how to color pumpkins with decorative paper.

The post How to Preserve Gourds and Display Them, too! appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Wildflower seeds gently blowing to re-seed.

Before harvesting seeds from your veggies and flowers, it’s important to know if the plants the seeds are coming from are open-pollinated or hybrid plants. Open-pollinated plants are pollinated by insects, birds and the wind. Hybrid plants are plants that have been cross-pollinated under controlled conditions with the help of humans using two different species of the plant. Hybrid plant growers chose traits such as larger blooms and berries or preferred colors and traits to modify and control the plant’s appearance. Plants and veggies purchased from department and grocery stores are likely to be hybrids. Seeds harvested from hybrids will often times not produce the same results as those that were naturally cross pollinated. If you bought your flowers and veggetables from a farm stand or home gardener, results will be more consistent.

Milkweed seeds and pods ready to harvest. Milkweed is a great plant for Butterfly gardens

Instructions on How to Harvest Seeds:

1. Prepare for seed harvesting by labeling small paper bags or manila envelopes with the name of the plant seeds you are harvesting and the date and color of the flower if applicable. Use sharp kitchen scissors for cutting pods.
2. Look for seeds with dry and brown pods.
3. Snip the entire pod into the paper bag or envelope and shake to loosen the seeds.
4. Leave the bags/envelopes open and hang from a rafter in a dry area with good air circulation.
5. Let the pods and seeds dry for a few weeks, occasionally checking the bags for mold and shaking the contents to aid in the drying process.
6. If the seeds have not dried completely after a few weeks, spread them out on newspaper for another week before re-checking them.
7. After the seeds have dried completely, remove all pods and debris and loosely re-package the seeds in a clean, labeled paper envelope and store in a dry place until planting time.

Gardener’s Tip: If you have an abundance of dried seeds, you may want to create your own seed packets by decorating envelopes with scrapbooking supplies and printing directions for planting the seeds. These packets make great gifts.

Top 5 Flower Seeds to Dry

1. Nasturtium
2. Pansy
3. Marigold
4. Foxglove
5. Zinnia

Top 5 Vegetable Seeds to Dry

1. Tomatoes
2. Beans
3. Squash
4. Zucchini
5. Watermelon

Know that you know how to harvest and dry seeds, start planning next year’s garden. Happy Harvesting!

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How to Press Flowers

1. Pick flowers when they are at the peak of health if possible. If the flowers are wet, allow them to air dry before pressing.
2. Place each flower separately between two pieces of square cut plain white paper. Allow for at least a one inch border of white paper on all four sides of the flower.
3. Place the enveloped flower in the middle of a hardcover heavy book such as an old encyclopedia. Many flowers may be pressed at the same time in one book as long as each flower is enclosed in separate pieces of paper and spaced between several pages each.
4. Place other heavy hardcover books on top of the pressing book and leave the books sitting for at least two weeks.
5. At the end of the two weeks, check to see if the flowers are flat and dry to the touch. If they are, they’re ready. If flowers show any sign of moisture, place them back in the book between fresh pieces of paper and check them again in a few days. Remove when completely dry.

5 Simple Craft Ideas for Pressed Flowers

1. Flower Documentation: Arrange the flowers between two pieces of waxed paper and cover the top of the waxed paper with a thin dish towel and iron. The wax will seal the flowers. When the waxed paper cools, use a permanent marker to write the plant name, the year it was grown and notes about it to add to your garden journal/record keeping.
2. Bookmarks: Arrange pressed flowers on cardstock paper or recycled greeting cards cut into bookmark sized strips and laminate.
3. Framed with a Poem: Copy a favorite poem onto handmade or textured paper. Place flowers around the poem to accent it. When you are happy with the arrangement use a tiny dot of tacky glue to secure each dried plant. Let dry and frame as usual.
4. Handmade Cards/Stationery: Purchase plain card stock paper or handmade paper and fold in half into a card shape. Use tacky glue to secure flowers and spray with a clear sealant if desired.
5. Place Settings/Mats: Use 11 X 14 inch heavy cardstock paper as a background for place mats and smaller cuts of heavy cardstock paper for place settings. Arrange flowers around names in calligraphy and laminate.

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10 Simple Mid-Summer Gardening Tips to Prolong the Life of Flowers and Plants

1. Deadhead gradually— as you see flowers wilt and die, nip those as you walk by.  A little here and there is less tedious then tackling it all at once. Save the deadheaded plants and seeds to begin drying for next year’s planting.
2. Donate surplus veggies to local homeless shelters and soup kitchens. Donate flowers in mason jar vases as well if you have extra. Everyone deserves to experience the joy of a pretty bouquet.
3.  Remove yellowing, dead and dying leaves and vines from veggies.  This will allow any new growth to be directly distributed to the living parts of the plant.
4. Sprinkle nutrient-rich topsoil with compost around flowers and plants for a mid-summer boost.
5. Redistribute leftover mulch in bare areas to freshen up the landscape.
6. Stage pots of new bloomers throughout perennial gardens that are past peak to add new life to the garden.
7. Create a garden focal point or centerpiece by placing a wheel barrow or whiskey barrel planter full of colorful annuals in the middle of a past peak perennial garden area.
8.  Water only plants that need water at this point in the season. Do not waste time and water on anything that has gone by.
9. Keep a garden journal and take notes on this year’s garden success and failures while it is still fresh in your mind.  Sketch out garden plans for next year and make notes of the climate, conditions and soil.
10. Finally, take time to relax in your garden and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

The post 10 Mid-Summer Gardening Tips to Prolong the Life of Flowers and Plants appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Place your birdbath out of direct sunlight.

1. Choose a location near trees and woods or areas that are known nesting locations and/or reliable food sources for birds, such as close to berry trees, suet feeders, thickets and bird feeders.

2. Do not place the birdbath in an area that gets full, hot sun as the water will become too warm to cool the birds off and it may evaporate altogether.

3. Choose a Bird bath that is medium to large in size and at least 4 inches deep so that there is plenty of water for a few birds to splash in together (communal bathing is something many species of birds prefer to do, and it is fun to watch) medium and large bird baths allow for evaporation and spills throughout the day too.

4. Change the birdbath water daily. Birds are known to frequently use birdbaths as toilet as well.

5. Clean your birdbath at least once a week, more if needed. A simple wash out and refill from the garden hose is usually sufficient. If further cleaning is necessary, empty the dirty water and fill the bath basin with clean water from a hose or rain barrel. Add 1tsp. of household bleach to the water. Let the bleach sit for at least 5 minutes and then scrub with an old toothbrush brush before rinsing thoroughly and refilling.
*IMPORTANT NOTE* Do not leave the birdbath unattended while the bleach is sitting-bleach in the water is toxic and even deadly to birds and other animals!

6. At the end of the season, before it freezes, move terracotta or concrete birdbaths out of the elements and into a storage shed, garage or basement for the winter to avoid cracks and breaks- unless you plan to purchase a winter bird bath heating device that will keep the water in the bath free flowing for birds and other wildlife species to drink when needed. Such devices may be purchased at garden centers or home improvement stores nationwide.

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Plants that Repel Insects and Garden Pests

Marigolds: These compact flowers, with their brightly colored hues of yellow and orange, have a strong, distinct smell that makes this a plant that repels insects like mosquitoes and black flies. A great border plant to have around your home and outside seating areas. Marigolds work even better when planted near tomatoes to help to repel the dreaded tomato horn worm. Deer are not fond of the scent of marigolds either, and may decide not to munch on the more tempting fruits and veggies if they’re planted close by. These flowers will continue to bloom all summer and throughout the fall as long as they are deadheaded on a regular basis. Deadheaded buds may be dried and the seeds saved for next year.

Citronella: Yes, it’s actually a plant, and not a chemical! The strong citrus smell of this plant will repel insects like mosquitoes and black flies. A great container plant to have on your porch or deck to complement and work with marigolds to ward off predatory blood-thirsty insects.

Catnip: This herb does double duty as both a natural mosquito repellant and  a fun treat to entertain our feline friends — not only as it’s growing but also after it’s dried — as it can be packaged up and made into sachets that your cat can enjoy anytime throughout the year!

Garlic: It’s not just for vampires! Garlic wards off garden pests such as slugs, snails, ticks, and some grubs. Japanese beetles avoid garlic as well, though these pests are all but impossible to eliminate altogether. Garlic also helps to keep mosquitoes at bay. The added bonus is that you can eat it too!

Castor Oil Plant: This plant is said to discourage moles and mice from invading lawns as well as being effective on deterring deer and many species of ants.

Find out more about plants that repel insects in this article about companion planting.

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Wood Pallet Garden

Check your local recycling center for information on where to find wood pallets to use as garden frames. When you locate wood pallets, make sure to choose ones that are in good, sturdy condition and have not been treated with pesticides. NOTE: If you’re unsure whether your pallet has been treated with pesticides, it’s best to only put non-edible plants in them.

Materials to Make Wood Pallet Garden Frames

• Wood Pallets
• Garden Soil
• Seeds or Plants
• Permanent Marker

Instructions to Make Wood Pallet Garden Frames

1. Choose a sunny location in which to set up your wood pallet garden frames.
2. Prepare a garden bed by rototilling, aerating, and working compost into the soil just as you would any garden, but in dimensions to accommodate the wood pallet.
3. Dig a rough outline of approximately half the depth size of the outside frame of the pallet (approximately 4 inches) and place the wood pallet in the area. This will help to stabilize the pallet. Hammer the edges with a rubber mallet for more stability.
4. Add enough soil to fill the open rows approximately ¾ way full.
5. Plant seeds, seedlings or starter plants in the rows that are created by the openings in the wood pallets.
6. Label the rows by marking on the pallet with a permanent marker or a wooden handmade stake.
7. Water and care for your wood pallet garden just as you would any other garden — minus much of the weeding — and enjoy a compact, efficient little vegetable patch with much less work.
8. When it’s time to rotate your garden at the end of the growing season, just lift the pallet from the ground and store away or move to next year’s location.

Have you ever used wood pallet garden frames? If so, we want to see them! Upload a photo to the garden category at: yankeemagazine.com/pictures/submit

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If you don’t have favorite plants in mind, consider experimenting with complementary color schemes and combinations. There are very few rules when it comes to creating great garden combinations, so go ahead and let your imagination run wild.

5 Great Garden Combinations of Edible and Ornamental Plants

1. Dark purple eggplant (edible) grows nicely with purple and green variegated Coleus (non-edible)

2. Chives, Scallions and Nasturtium (all edibles) make a whimsical combination of shades of green, yellows and orange. Although Nasturtium are generally planted as an ornamental in flower gardens, they are edible and serve as a vibrant yet delicate garnish.

3. Greens such as spinach, lettuce and Swiss chard grow fast and are harvested sooner than other veggies. These edibles are great for use as pot fillers around existing ornamental plants or in bare areas of newly planted gardens.

4. Climbing plants and vines such as beans (edible) and morning glory (non-edible) will twine around each other and create a wall of blooms and pods that compete for sunlight and your attention.

5. Pumpkins (edible) planted along with marigolds and Black Eyed Susan(non-edible) are ready to enjoy add a punch of orange color just in time for the fall harvest.

Combinations of edible and non-edible plants are endless, so have fun and experiment. One word of caution, though — be sure to check to see if any of the ornamental plants on your list of favorites are toxic and avoid those that are. Better safe than sorry!

The post 5 Great Garden Combinations of Ornamental and EdiblePlants appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Tuck plants between large rocks to build a rock garden.

If larger rocks are your preference, it’s best to build a rock garden that incorporates existing boulders or large rocks rather than moving the rocks.  Add 6-8 inches of rich soil to the areas and openings surrounding the rocks. Choose plants to fill the crevices that are drought tolerant and/or have trailing roots.  Planting perennial seeds in the openings between the rocks will also add another layer of interest once the plants begin to grow and mature. If you have medium to large rocks that aren’t buried deep in the earth and are circular in shape, consider rolling these to the area of your choice for additional depth.

Succulents work very well in rock gardens.

Instructions to Build a Rock Garden

1. To build a small rock wall garden, begin by marking the area that you want to build the wall on with string or spray paint.
2. Collect small to medium sized rocks 6-12 inches in diameter. 
3. Place the rocks together  by size, shape and fit securing the layers by arranging appropriately sized rocks to fill spaces as needed.
4. Once the wall is built up a few layers, add clean soil and plant perennial flowers and plants at the base. Succulents such as Sedum and Hens and Chicks may be tucked into the crevices and will quickly spread to give the wall an established look.
   

Looking for another weekend project? Consider this: a rock garden naturally complements the soothing look and sound of a backyard water garden.

The post Build a Rock Garden in a Day appeared first on Yankee Magazine.

Succulents Container Garden

Container Garden Ideas

Italian Chef: An Italian herb container garden planted with oregano, chives and basil is a fragrant and useful way to grow compatible cooking herbs. Enhance the theme by planting the herbs in a wood crate, or take this look to the next level by planting the herbs in a vintage tomato crate.

Tea Time Theme: Varieties of mint such a peppermint, curly mint and spearmint grown in an old teapot with drainage holes is a charming way to display a tiny mint garden. And what a refreshing way to sample a snippet or two of different mint leaves in your summer iced tea.

Color Theme: Use colorful combinations of blue and yellow flowers such as pansies, violets and forget-me-nots to add a splash of color to your doorstep. Or, go all white for understated elegance with peonies, snow drops and creeping phlox in an old tin watering can or white washed terracotta pot for a shabby-chic effect.

Herb Container Garden

Instructions to Create a Container Garden

1. Drill drainage holes in a clean container to allow proper soil aeration.
2. Fill container ¾ full of rich soil. Plants will need a soil depth that allows roots to spread.
3. Dig 3-5 holes that are deep enough to cover the roots of the chosen plants. Place plants close together, but be careful not to cramp them.
4. Plants should be selected for soil condition compatibility, light requirements and visual interest. For example, herbs will do well together, but flowers that thrive in direct sunlight should not be mixed with shade loving plants.
5. Plant the tallest plant in the center and smaller plants to the sides where cascading is possible.
6. Cover only the roots of the plants and water enough to moisten the soil.
7. Place in a bright sunny spot and water as needed—typically when the soil begins to dry out.

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