Issues → September 2006 → Food → Oyster History and Recipes →

A Field Guide to New England Oysters

by Annie B. Copps

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Oysters are all about the place from which they hail. Following is a sampler of delectable oysters grown in the chilly waters of coastal New England. All are eastern oysters, but each type boasts a distinctive taste peculiar to the salty cove, plankton-rich bay, or brackish river where they are grown.

Bagaduce (Maine): Deep cups, with a fruity, almost berry-like finish. The Indian name means "fast water."

Barnstable (Massachusetts): White to brown in coloring, with medium cups and light and clean brininess; somewhat sweet.

Cotuit (Massachusetts): Medium to large size; silky-smooth meat, with a clean and lingering ocean essence.

Glidden Point (Maine): Big boys from the Damariscotta River, with a slightly briny, crisp, and clean ocean flavor.

Island Creek (Massachusetts): Large shells with small meat; sweet and slightly nutty in flavor.

Moonstone (Rhode Island): Often power washed to produce pearl-white shells; silky-smooth meat with a full-bodied, rich saltiness.

Pemaquid (Maine): Very plump, with a crisp, cold-water richness.

Stonington (Connecticut): Deep cups filled with plump meats; mild saltiness and a sweet finish.

Ninigret (Rhode Island): Medium size, with a creamy, nutlike taste at first and a clean, briny finish.

Wellfleet (Massachusetts): Wild samples vary from very good to excellent; deep cups brimming with strong brininess and a sweet seaweed flavor. Farmed Wellfleets are also consistently good, with a similar sweet and briny taste and a coppery finish.

With thanks to chef Gregg Reeves, B&G Oysters, Ltd., 550 Tremont St., Boston, MA; 617-423-0550. bandgoysters.com