Issues → October 2006 → Food →
Easy Does It: Macaroni and Cheese
The ultimate comfort food is a snap to prepare
by Judy Feagin
Most people enjoy macaroni and cheese just like their mom made. For some, that means a custard-based sauce; for others, it's a béchamel sauce with the addition of cheese. Then there's the entire generation that prefers the boxed version (this group does not know what they're missing). I've had fun with all three versions. (Yes, I surrendered to the box when my 2-year-old granddaughter was not impressed with my own mac and cheese testing -- oh, what we do to keep them happy!)
My mother always made the custard version, in which a combination of milk and beaten eggs was poured over layers of cooked macaroni and shredded cheddar cheese. I favor the velvety smooth cheese sauce that's prepared while the pasta cooks. Mother always used elbow macaroni, but I prefer a larger noodle such as penne, rigatoni, or ziti; these shapes seem to hold up better to the hearty cheese sauce. I add crushed red pepper flakes and a sprinkling of buttered panko bread crumbs to elevate a nostalgic recipe to new levels. If you can't take the heat of the pepper flakes, leave them out or try adding a tablespoon of Dijon mustard to the sauce.
Panko
Panko is a crunchy, flaky bread crumb from Japan, available in Asian markets and most grocery stores. If you can't find panko, make your own bread crumbs using day-old French or Italian bread. Place bread in a food processor fitted with a steel blade and pulse three or four times or until bread turns to fine crumbs. Spread on a baking sheet. Bake at 300° 6 to 8 minutes, or until crumbs are dry and crisp. Do not brown.
Macaroni and Cheese
Pasta Recipes
Preparation Time: 25 minutes
Start to Finish Time: 50 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
- 1 8-ounce package ziti, macaroni, or your favorite pasta
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2 cups milk
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
- 8 ounces (about 2 cups) sharp Vermont cheddar cheese, shredded
Heat oven to 350°. Melt unsalted butter in a large, heavy skillet. Add panko and stir until coated; set aside.
Cook pasta according to package directions, stopping 2 minutes shy of suggested cooking time; drain and set aside.
Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large, heavy saucepan over low heat; whisk in flour until smooth. Cook, whisking constantly, about 1 minute, being careful not to let the mixture brown. Gradually add milk and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture is thickened and bubbly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, then add salt, pepper, red pepper flakes (if desired), and cheese, whisking until the cheese melts.
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