Issues → October 2006 → Travel →
Rhode Island in Foliage Season
A little state with big color
by Megan Fulweiler
Okay, her palette is more subdued. But like her big New England sisters, our state also dresses up for autumn. Preferring not to flaunt her charms, Little Rhody holds them close.
No mountainsides streaming red, maybe, but layers of rich color that warrant up-close inspection are what you'll find here. In the southern part of the state (our favorite fall territory), coastal woodlands are chock-full of small- to medium-size trees and knee-high grasses in heart-stopping shades of deep umber and mahogany. Beneath them sway stands of ochre ferns and lavender-colored, button-sized asters. And then, of course, there's the ocean and the salty mist that can roll in to deliciously smudge the colors and perfume the air.
The ocean magnifies and enhances this quirky season for us. Stand still at Trustom Pond National Wildlife Refuge and you'll hear the waves pounding Moonstone Beach long before you see them. The 160-acre pond (the state's only undeveloped salt pond) throws back a glorious reflection of trees and sky. But add some thundering surf (just beyond a skinny strip of barrier beach) and you've really got a show. Rhode Island has lots of surprises like this -- tight, wooded trails flanked with yellow curtains of wild grapes and trailing vines that explode to spectacular views.
And our attractions morph delightfully, according to weather and tide. Visit picturesque Wickford Harbor one afternoon when the wind is cranking and watch the leaves fly along with the whitecaps, the boats tossing at their moorings. Come back the next day when all is clear and the surface will be blue glass, the boats lined up like ducks and the trees as prim and proper as nearby St. Paul's steeple.
Sure, we don't have dizzying peaks to scale. But Fort Wetherill State Park in Jamestown has enough elevation to afford sweeping views of Newport's tree-rimmed shores, Newport Harbor, and East Passage. One-hundred-foot granite cliffs guard a pair of narrow coves where hordes of scuba divers play. Bright-red flags, like cheery birthday candles, bob above the divers' underwater spots.
In Newport, the great trees along Bellevue Avenue look as gilded as the mansions. The afternoon light burnishes the coppery leaves, lending the scene a romantic, big-as-Hollywood persona. "It's true, the mood heightens," says Andrea Carneiro, communications manager for The Preservation Society of Newport County. "There's a shimmery gold cast to everything."
If we crave a different perspective, we can zoom north and then east over the Sakonnet River, pick up Route 77, and dip south again till we can't go any farther. This is a heady part of the state, too -- pretty rolling pastures falling off to the water, lovely farmhouses, and bountiful farm stands. You know the kind: piles of neon-orange pumpkins, knobby gourds, and Indian corn.
Seasonal explorations in the northern half of the state might include what natives call the Gloucester Loop -- a sort of squiggly drive meandering west along Route 44, past Waterman Reservoir and the village of Harmony (a must-stop for some of Chester's chili), and then on through Chepachet and West Gloucester. There we can start the gradual swing on smaller roads through Clayville and up to North Scituate, ambling our way back home. In these parts, with the road almost to yourself, it's possible to just poke along. Barns go by, antiques shops sprout here and there, and, on either side of the car, ribbons of colored trees unravel.
In the end, it's all about our mood or how the wind is blowing. The craving for fresh apples moves us one way, a desire to walk barefoot on sand another. We Rhode Islanders delight in the deep, winter-is-coming hue of the bay as well as the blazing maples. And since it's an easy drive from one end of our bushel-basket-sized domain to the other, we needn't choose any one activity. In just a couple of hours, we know, we can have it all -- the whole state. And, really, how sweet is that?
What the Locals Know
Peak color? If it's the tallest point in Rhode Island you're asking about, then the answer is Jerimoth Hill in Foster. At 812 feet tall, "It's just a bump in the road," says Foster resident Heidi Colwell. Locals are most apt to drive by, yet about 700 visitors come each year with the goal of reaching the top. They call themselves highpointers -- avid hikers who want to scale the highest point in each of the 50 states. Although Jerimoth Hill is among the list's lowest elevations (Delaware, Florida, Louisiana, and Mississippi have high points closer to sea level), until recently it had been the least accessible. Now, thanks to abutters Jeff and Deb Mosley, there's a clear path to the peak. Even if you aren't a highpointer, the easy four-minute hike is a worthwhile outing for up-close and personal views of fall color. Off Rte. 101 in North Foster. Access open Sat.-Sun. 8-3.
Where to Stay
Crosswinds Little Farm Bed and Breakfast
When you stay at this pretty 19th-century Federal-style farmhouse, you’re only minutes away from Wickford Village. You’ll sleep well, but hopefully not through breakfast. Proprietor Hope Ryan is a professionally trained chef. Rates: $95-$145, including full breakfast. [DETAILS]
Hydrangea House Inn
This elegant inn mimics a mini-hotel. The decor -- and the breakfasts (try the raspberry pancakes) -- are luxe. Right up the street are the famed mansions. Rates: $265-$475, including full breakfast. [DETAILS]
Ivy Lodge
One of the most interesting inns around, with a three-story Gothic foyer. Don't be surprised if you spot a celebrity (they love this place) over morning coffee. Rates: $129-$479, including full breakfast. [DETAILS]
Shelter Harbor Inn
Twenty-four comfortable rooms and several dining rooms make for a relaxed stay. The sunroom with a bar is an additional bonus. Rates: $96-$228, including full breakfast. [DETAILS]
Shop Here
Brown and Hopkins Country Store
A dead ringer for those stores of yesteryear where penny candy hobnobbed with dungarees. [DETAILS]
Different Drummer
An eclectic array of eye-catching treats, including some very noteworthy greeting cards. [DETAILS]
Karen Vaughan
An engaging inventory of jewelry from exotic locales, plus ornaments, mirrors, furnishings, and more. [DETAILS]
Tiverton 4 Corners
Old-fashioned buildings filled with a range of upscale products, from home accessories to baby gear. [DETAILS]
Where to Eat
Bay Leaves
A generous eastern Mediterranean-influenced menu provides a delicious break from the usual. Entrées: $12.50-$25.50. [DETAILS]
Bluebird Cafe
Known around the state for its flavorful breakfasts and lunches. On Fridays, dinner is served, with Cajun and southwestern specials. Prices: $1.75 and up. [DETAILS]
Chester's Restaurant
Hearty, please-all-the-family fare that includes favorite standbys such as burgers, pasta, and steak. Entrées: $7.99-$17.99. [DETAILS]
White Horse Tavern
A historic 17th-century tavern with an upscale menu. Entrées: $26 and up. [DETAILS]
Wilcox Tavern
Regional fare, as well as a host of Italian-inspired offerings in an 18th-century quintessential New England building. Entrées: $13 and up. [DETAILS]
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