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Cooking 101

Culinary schools, cooking-class weekends, 3 sample recipes

by Jane Dornbusch

If you want to be a chef -- and these days, it seems nearly everyone does -- you've got to have a first-class culinary education. And to get a first-class culinary education, you've got to go to Paris, or London, or at least Hyde Park, New York, home of the Culinary Institute of America.

Or New England.

Cooking schools are hot. Blame (or credit) such media phenomena as The Food Network, Hell's Kitchen, and celebrity chefs from Ming to Mario: Students are flocking to a field that's now seen as both prestigious and secure, as the proliferation of sophisticated restaurants in New England means there are plenty of jobs out there for qualified applicants. Whatever your reason for pursuing a culinary education, there's a school for you in New England. Here are three of the best, each catering to a particular type of student.

Cambridge School of Culinary Arts, Cambridge, Massachusetts

If you're a career changer, you'll find plenty of company at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. Founder Roberta Dowling says that 95 percent of the students are college graduates. "They're doctors and lawyers who've decided they want to do something with food instead," she notes. A random check of students working in the classroom kitchens turns up Becky Fingleton, who came here after doing marketing for a hedge fund; Matt Monteverd, who decided on cooking after earning a BA in economics; and Connie Petruzziello, who enrolled when she realized that she preferred cooking to real-estate research. In 10 months, students walk out with a solid grounding in classical, regional, and international cuisines, and the tools to get started in a culinary career. 617-354-2020; cambridgeculinary.com

Johnson & Wales University, Providence, Rhode Island

Students here quickly learn they don't have to stay in the kitchen. "When freshmen come in," says College of Culinary Arts dean Paul McVey, "about 99 percent want to be executive chefs. By the time they graduate [from J&W's four-year degree program], we've expanded their horizons, and they may go on to be food scientists, food service entrepreneurs, and so on." Still, J&W students get plenty of hands-on cooking experience, and many do go on to become chefs. If you want to be the next Emeril, J&W is a great choice: It's the alma mater of the current Emeril. 800-342-5598; culinary.jwu.edu

New England Culinary Institute, Montpelier and Essex, Vermont

From their first day, students are expected to cook for the public at one of NECI's dining venues. It's literally a trial by fire, and student Ifer Saipher says the experience was terrifying. "I was scared to death," he recalls. "I was shaking." But with experienced chef-instructors by their sides and classes that may number as few as five students, aspiring chefs soon learn real-world lessons. Indeed, by the time they've completed the two-year course -- half of the program on campus and half spent in internships -- they're practically seasoned pros. Chef-instructor Dina Altieri compares NECI favorably with the CIA: "NECI is more hands-on, with an individual approach to learning. Students have to do more here." 877-223-6324; neci.edu

Sample the Talents of New England's Newest Chefs

You don't have wait years to see the next generation of celebrity chefs in action; you can taste their wares right now at these area restaurants, where some of the best students are putting their creativity to the test. For service hours, call ahead or visit the Web sites listed.

Swiss Chard and Pasta Soup with Turkey Meatballs

From Yankee Magazine — March 2007

Soups, Stews, Chowders Recipes

Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 0.5 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

• 1 large egg
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1 pound lean ground turkey
• 1-1/4 cups plain dried breadcrumbs
• 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, plus extra to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 quarts (8 cups) low-sodium chicken stock
• 2 large carrots, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 cup penne pasta
• 5 cups white Swiss chard (or escarole), stems trimmed, washed, and coarsely chopped
• 1 cup shredded mozzarella
• Garnish: finely shredded Parmesan cheese

In a medium bowl, whisk egg and water together until well blended. Add turkey, breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper. Using moistened hands, shape turkey mixture into 1-1/4-inch meatballs. Place on a baking sheet; chill 30 minutes.

In a large pot, bring chicken stock to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and add carrots and turkey meatballs; simmer uncovered 8 minutes. Add pasta and cook until al dente (slightly undercooked), about 3 minutes.

Stir in Swiss chard and simmer until tender, about 3 to 5 minutes longer. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide mozzarella into six serving bowls and ladle soup into bowls. Garnish with additional Parmesan cheese.

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Striped Bass and Orange Ceviche

From Yankee Magazine — March 2007

Fish and Seafood Recipes

Preparation Time: 15 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 60 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

• 1/2 pound fresh striped bass fillet (or other firm white fish), cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
• 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
• 4 to 5 navel orange segments (pith removed)
• 1 jalapeño or other fresh hot pepper, minced
• 2 tablespoons minced red onion
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Garnish: cilantro sprigs

In a medium nonreactive bowl, combine all ingredients thoroughly but gently. Marinate, covered and refrigerated, 30 to 60 minutes or longer (but not more than 8 hours).

Scoop ceviche into small bowls, garnish with cilantro sprigs, and serve with tortilla chips.

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Roasted Rack of Lamb with Spaetzle

From Yankee Magazine — March 2007

Meat Recipes

Preparation Time: 40 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 60 minutes

Yield: 4 to 8 servings

While rack of lamb is a splurge, this recipe is easy and elegant for a special dinner. Don't let the spaetzle part scare you -- once you make it, it'll become part of your "wow" repertoire.

• 1 rack of lamb, frenched
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 2 cups flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
• 4 eggs
• 1/2 cup milk
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Heat oven to 375°. Generously season rack of lamb on both sides with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy-bottomed, ovenproof skillet, heat oil on high and sear lamb on all sides until well browned, about 4 minutes each side. Place in oven 12 to 15 minutes for rare (140° in center), or until meat reaches desired doneness. Remove from oven, tent with foil, and let rest 5 minutes before carving.

In a small mixing bowl, combine flour and 1 teaspoon salt. Create a well in center of flour mixture. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs and milk. Pour into flour well and mix slowly until a smooth batter comes together.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Using a rubber spatula, push batter through a large-holed colander (or a spaetzle maker) into boiling water. Cook until spaetzle float to the surface; then use a slotted spoon to transfer to a bowl. Season with salt and pepper; toss with melted butter and parsley. Carve rack into single or double bone-in pieces. Spoon a generous portion of spaetzle onto warmed serving plates. Place lamb pieces on top of spaetzle with bones pointing up. Serve with steamed asparagus.

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Weekend Getaways with a Twist

Many New England inns offer cooking-class weekends and packages. It's a little taste of culinary school combined with comfort and relaxation of a mini-vacation -- the perfect getaway for those whose idea of a good time is creating a great meal. Here's a sampling:

Rabbit Hill Inn

The Rabbit Hill Inn features a two-night package (Sunday and Monday) with a three-hour cooking class. Participants eat dinner as a group to follow up on the camaraderie of the kitchen. [DETAILS]

Chef for a Day

Even if you can't commit to a full-time program, you, too, can hone your culinary expertise as you learn from the pros. No experience required -- each of New England's cooking schools offer classes geared to a range of interests and skill levels, from "arugula" to "zerous," and beginner to blue-ribbon. Space is limited, so reserve early: