Issues → May/June 2007 → Food →
Homegrown: Asparagus
When asparagus shows up in Hadley, Massachusetts, spring has arrived.
by Megan Moore
Asparagus cultivation dates back to early Greek and Roman civilizations, but our local fondness got jumping in the 1920s when Massachusetts' Pioneer Valley showed its fertile self with such prodigious harvests that the town of Hadley was crowned the "Asparagus Capital of the World."
Some describe this member of the lily family's flavor as nutty, grassy, and earthy; we say it tastes just like asparagus.
Choose firm, bright-green spears with closed and dry tips. Thick or thin (thicker stalks are generally more tender), peeled or not, is totally up to you, but you'll have better cooking results if you choose one or the other -- this way the spears will cook at the same rate. Some eat asparagus raw, but we prefer it steamed, roasted, grilled, or sautéed. Either way, this local favorite is in season now, is about 4 calories per stalk, and is packed with gobs of vitamins, folate, potassium, and fiber.
Today, there are more than 200 acres of Hadley farmland devoted to growing asparagus, as well as good ol' church suppers featuring "Hadley grass."
"People who stop here send our asparagus all over the country," says Hadley grower James Gnatek of Alligator Brook Farm. "It's gone to Hawaii, California, all over. It's simply the highest quality in the world."
Asparagus Salad with Peas and Toasted Almonds
Vegetables Recipes
Preparation Time: 20 minutes
Start to Finish Time: 30 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
- 2 bunches asparagus, washed and cut into 5-inch pieces (tough bottoms discarded)
- 1 cup shelled fresh peas
- 1 medium shallot, minced
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1⁄3 cup whole almonds
- 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- About 10 fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped
- Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- Garnish: 4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler
In a large bowl, combine 3 cups very cold water with 1 dozen ice cubes. In a large saucepan, bring 6 cups well-salted water to a boil; add asparagus. Return water to a boil and blanch asparagus 5 minutes (8 to 10 minutes if using thick spears). Remove asparagus with tongs (reserving water in pan) and place in ice water 1 minute; remove from water, dry, and set aside. Bring cooking water back to a boil and blanch peas about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and place in ice water 1 minute. Strain and dry well; set aside.
In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, sauté shallot in olive oil until translucent, about 5 minutes. Remove shallot to a small bowl and set aside. Add almonds to hot oil and toast 6 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently, being careful not to burn. Add almonds to shallot and mix in lemon zest, juice, peas, and mint leaves.
Arrange asparagus spears on a serving platter (or divided among six salad plates). Season pea and almond mixture with salt and pepper, then spoon over asparagus. Garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
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