Issues → May/June 2007 → Travel →
Cape Ann, Massachusetts: The Other Cape
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Cape Ann Historical Museum
In a whitewashed brick building a block off Main Street, the Cape Ann Historical Museum shows off 40 of the luminous canvases of native son Fitz H. Lane, who captured the unique glow of Cape Ann light perhaps better than anyone. [DETAILS]
Goetemann Gallery
In a gallery perched on the waterfront, Gordon Goetemann produces dark, brooding canvases abstracted from the forms of the rocky coastline, and his wife, Judith, works with batik on cotton to produce translucent images of herons in flight and seagulls perched on the dock. [DETAILS]
Cape Ann Artisans
Cape Ann Artisans produces a guide to back-road artists' studios. Also located at the Rockport Information Booth, Rte. 127, Rockport (978-546-6575). [DETAILS]
Judith Wright
Judith Wright's studio, perched above the crashing waves of Ipswich Bay, is the perfect inspiration for her delicate inlaid-mosaic tables of fish and birds. [DETAILS]
Halibut Point State Park
Head to Rockport’s Halibut Point State Park, at the north tip of the cape, where hiking trails wend among sheets of granite plunging down to the ocean below. From the top of an old fire tower, visitors can gaze out over the ocean, past the Isles of Shoals in New Hampshire all the way to the southern coast of Maine. [DETAILS]
Inn on Cove Hill
Many of the old homes in the area have been reinvented as bed-and-breakfasts, including The Inn on Cove Hill, a spotless Georgian captain’s home with original pumpkin-pine floorboards in the entryway and rooms filled with lacecovered canopy beds. “The house has been standing here so long, and I think of all the storms it has weathered,” innkeeper Betsy Eck says. [DETAILS]
Essex Shipbuilding Museum
One of the last historic Essex schooners sits picturesquely on stocks in the yard, while up the hill, a dusty schoolhouse displays a collection of tools, ship models, and photographs. [DETAILS]
Woodman's of Essex
Essex’s modern claim to fame is as the birthplace of the fried clam, invented in 1916 when Lawrence “Chubby” Woodman spontaneously dropped a bivalve into a kettle of potato chip oil. Salt-covered beachgoers still stop by Woodman’s of Essex to squeeze into wooden booths and dip breaded-to-order clam bellies into homemade tartar sauce. [DETAILS]
Portside Chowder House
A local favorite is the Portside Chowder House on Rockport’s Bearskin Neck, which dishes out steaming cups of clam chowder and local swordfish steaks grilled with Cajun seasoning from a vantage overlooking the water. [DETAILS]
Schooner Thomas E. Lannon
The Thomas E. Lannon gives schooner tours out of Gloucester Harbor. [DETAILS]
Duckworth's Bistrot
Despite its location perched above Rocky Neck, the intimate Duckworth’s Bistrot has no windows facing the harbor.That’s a clue to the emphasis here, which is all on the food. The menu runs to classic bistro fare such as fresh salade Niçoise with seared yellowfin tuna and savory roasted-garlic red wine dressing, and Black Angus rib eye topped with a flavorful wild-mushroom sauce. The restaurant is the child of chef Ken Duckworth, formerly of Boston’s acclaimed Maison Robert. In keeping with his love of experimentation, all of the entrées are available as half portions so diners can mix and match according to their own creative desires. [DETAILS]
Addison Choate Inn
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Emerson Inn By The Sea
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