Issues → July/August 2007 → Feature Stories →
Cooking Aboard Sailboat
Recipes for family meals on the ocean
by Annie B. Copps
For 30 years, the Boston Sailing Center has been offering courses to all types of sailors, from those just getting their sea legs to seasoned captains preparing to make coastal passages. The center also offers memberships that include the use of a variety of vessels and opportunities for bareboat charters in the Virgin Islands and other destinations. 617-227-4198; bostonsailingcenter.com
"It was our love for the ocean that brought us together in the first place," says Helen Gallo Bryan. She met her husband, Dave Bryan, manager of the Boston Sailing Center, more than a decade ago when she first signed up for sailing lessons. "We quickly figured out we had a passion for wine and food, too," says Dave. "So being on the boat for a day or a week, with or without the boys, we eat and drink well."
Helen understands multitasking. The couple has two young sons (Daniel, 6, and Oliver, 3), and she is an executive with Winebow, an importer of Italian estate wines. She admits it takes a little forethought to pull off a fresh and delicious meal while under sail, but she says once you learn a few tricks, you can apply them to any meal -- at home or with the spinnaker flying.
"People think we're nuts," says Dave, "when we talk about a great meal we had and that it was while we were on a sailing vacation with the kids. We take the kids everywhere, and if we're out cruising, they come along -- we don't get enough time with them as it is, and the ocean is a great place for them to be. What better way to spend time as a family and for them to understand, love, and respect the water?"
Helen and Dave chose a menu that includes healthy ingredients that can be made in advance and then quickly assembled, easily grilled (or placed in the boat's tiny oven in case the weather turns), and kept in a cooler for a few days -- important when you can't run to the store for missing ingredients. "Normally in the summer, I'd use fresh tomatoes, but oven-dried are more forgiving in case we hit waves or we can't use them before they go south," explains Helen.
Planning ahead is the key. "Almost all the provisions we take along are ingredients that mix and match well. We put olive oil and garlic in everything. Olive oil doesn't need to be refrigerated and is a better health choice than butter," says Helen.
"If you're going to be out for a few days, think of your meals as a three-day picnic and plan accordingly." And there's no reason to skip dessert. "I got the idea from slice-and-bake cookies and experimented. I make a batch, form them into logs, and freeze them. They also help keep the cooler temperature down, and they're delicious -- by land or sea."
Wine Selections
Helen's company imports these wines (and hundreds more), and she chose them for their charming flavors and versatility with a variety of foods.
Rose wines are in the midst of a revival, with more and more producers showing us that pink doesn't have to be a sweet, mass-produced white Zinfandel. To get the meal started, Helen chose a 2005 Valle Reale Cerasuolo Rosato ($14) from the Abruzzi region of Italy, on the Adriatic. It's a light and refreshing wine with berry and herb notes.
As a nice change from Chardonnay, Helen poured a 2005 Zenato Lugana di San Benedetto ($13), made from Trebbiano di Lugana grapes from the Veneto region of Italy. This white wine is full of tropical flavors and has a crisp citrus finish that makes it perfect with most meals.
Helen opted for the rich, plum-tasting 2002 Di Majo Norante Ramitello Rosso ($15) from Molise, Italy, as an excellent match for the steak (and chocolate cookies). It's made from a blend of Prugnolo Gentile (a clone of the Sangiovese grape, which is what Chianti is made from) and Aglianico grapes.
Helen's Helpful Hints
If dining on deck, especially with kids, avoid snacks that will blow away or are oily: "Chips, pretzels, and crackers fly away with the slightest puff of wind, and the kids' hands get covered in grease -- which ends up on everything they touch on a boat, and that can be dangerous. Cut-up fruits and vegetables work better." Helen also recommends wrap sandwiches, which her boys love: "I use small flour tortillas that they can easily hold with one hand. I try not to overfill them -- just some nice sliced turkey and a mild cheese."
When making marinades, stay away from acids such as citrus juice or vinegar: "Sometimes a storm comes in and you have to switch gears, and the steak has to wait another day. Or you might catch a big fish that you want to grill instead. Any acidic ingredient will start to ‘cook' the meat. If you like those flavors, add a splash shortly before you place the steak on the grill. Or use the zest of a lime and keep the juice for your gin-and-tonics. Anytime you can use an ingredient twice for dual purposes it's good."
Keep your eye on the salt: "I like to use saltier cheeses, such as feta, because they keep better under less-than-normal refrigeration, as do olives and other preserved foods. Just keep that in mind when you season your food."
And a few more tips on seasoning: "I like fresh herbs, even if we're cruising. I find that whole, small plants in plastic pots do quite well and add a homey touch to the galley. Condiments in squeeze bottles and tubes are a godsend. Aside from wine bottles, you want to avoid anything in glass."
Hummus
From Yankee Magazine — July 2007
Vegetables Recipes | Meatless Recipes | Beans Recipes
Yield: about 2 cups
This puree of garbanzo beans is a great make-ahead dip for any occasion, but it also works well as a spread in sandwiches instead of mayonnaise or mustard. The olive oil helps it stay fresh longer when refrigeration is iffy.
- 1 1-pound can garbanzo beans (also called chickpeas or ceci beans)
- 2 cloves garlic
- 2 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
- Juice of 1 lemon
- 1/2 teaspoon cumin (optional)
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Garnish: 1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh parsley
In a food processor, puree beans, garlic, tahini, juice, and cumin, if desired. With motor running, pour in olive oil until mixture is emulsified and creamy. (Thin with water if too thick for your preference.) Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place in a serving bowl and garnish with parsley.
Reviews by Readers
I think this recipe is entirely too strong for most people. Maybe if the garlic was reduced to one small clove? You'd have to be in love with garlic to enjoy this. – Reviewed by michelle dicken
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Farro Salad
From Yankee Magazine — July 2007
Meatless Recipes | Cornmeal, Rice, Grains Recipes
Preparation Time: 15 minutes
Start to Finish Time: 1.25 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Farro is an ancient grain, quite nutty in flavor. Add it to salads or try it in place of rice on the side, or in your next stew.
- 1-1/2 cups farro
- 4 cups water
- Table salt
- 4–5 sun- or oven-dried tomatoes, roughly chopped
- 1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
- 6–8 basil leaves, roughly chopped
- 2–3 scallions, finely chopped
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1 tablespoon red-wine or balsamic vinegar
First, cook the farro: Combine grain with 4 cups cold, salted water in a heavy saucepan. Set over medium heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. (The final cooking time depends on the size of the grains, so taste often and remove from heat when they achieve the desired tenderness.)
Drain any excess water and pour into a large bowl. Add tomatoes, feta, basil, scallions, olive oil, and vinegar. Stir until evenly mixed.
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Summer Vegetable
From Yankee Magazine — July 2007
Vegetables Recipes | Meatless Recipes
Yield: 6 servings
This camping favorite works well with any live fire or can easily go into a hot oven. Work with your favorite combination of vegetables and herbs -- just think about textures and cooking times. Peppers, onions, and potatoes work well together; while the spuds take more time, the peppers and onions just get sweeter and mellower. If you've got leftovers, this mix (along with some steak) makes a great salad or sandwich.
- 1 red pepper, seeds removed, sliced into 1-inch-wide strips
- 1 yellow pepper, seeds removed, sliced into 1-inch-wide strips
- 1 red or yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 1 sweet potato, sliced into thin rounds
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat grill to medium-high. Place ingredients in a large mixing bowl or zip-top bag and toss well to combine. Make a double layer (18 inches long) of aluminum foil and place half the vegetable mix in a horizontal strip along the middle. Bring top edges together and crimp to seal, then crimp ends to seal. Wrap with a third layer of foil and seal well.
Repeat with remaining ingredients. Put packets side by side directly on hot coals about 30 minutes, turning every 8 to 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and let sit 10 minutes. Carefully open packets and serve.
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Fruit Roll-Ups
From Yankee Magazine — July 2007
Candy Recipes | Fruit Recipes
Yield: about 5 pieces
These couldn't be easier to make. Kids love them, and they're perfect to pack along on any movable feast. Peaches, mangos, and most berries work best (avoid bananas, melons, or citrus).
- 2 cups pureed fruit
- 1 to 2 tablespoons honey
Heat oven to 200°.
In a small mixing bowl, stir ingredients well to combine. Line a baking sheet with waxed paper or a Silpat mat. Ladle puree onto baking sheet and spread into a very thin (about 1/8 inch) circle, about 8 inches in diameter. Repeat with remaining puree. Place in oven 5 to 6 hours or until dried but still flexible. Cool and wrap in plastic.
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Double-Chocolate Cookies
From Yankee Magazine — July 2007
Cookies and Bars Recipes
Yield: about 5 dozen cookies
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
- 1-1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 large egg
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/2 cup Dutch-process unsweetened cocoa powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 10-1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted, at room temperature
- Garnish: finely chopped pistachios
In a small bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt.
In a standing mixer or large bowl, cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and vanilla extract. Reduce speed to low, then add flour mixture and mix until just combined -- do not overmix.
Add cocoa powder, baking soda, and melted chocolate, and stir to combine (dough will be slightly stiff). On a sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap, form the dough into a log (12 inches long, 2 inches in diameter); wrap and seal well. Chill at least 4 hours or freeze (defrost before slicing).
Heat oven to 375°.
Slice 1/4-inch rounds from the log to fill an ungreased baking sheet. Dip your finger in water and moisten the edge of each cookie, then roll cookie in pistachios. Place in oven 6 minutes, turn baking sheet, and bake another 6 to 8 minutes.
Cool cookies 2 to 3 minutes on pan, then transfer to wire racks.
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Marinated Flank Steak
From Yankee Magazine — July 2007
Meat Recipes
Yield: 6 servings
- 1 2-pound flank or skirt steak, trimmed
- 1/2 cup dry white or red wine
- 1/2 red or yellow onion, sliced
- 4 to 5 sprigs fresh thyme
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 to 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place all ingredients through sugar in a large zip-top plastic bag. Toss to coat well. Refrigerate two hours or up to 3 days if you prefer.
Prepare grill or broiler to medium-high. Remove steak from marinade and shake off excess. Place on grill or under broiler about 4 minutes per side (for medium rare). Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper. Let rest 5 minutes before slicing.
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