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Cooking with Summer Ocean Fish
Bass, flounder, and bluefish recipes
by Victoria Abbott Riccardi
For cooks and anglers alike, one of the joys of living in New England is the bounty of fish that inhabit our oceans. But it's the summer months that bring the most excitement -- that's when the migratory species arrive, our outdoor grills are fired up, and our gardens are burgeoning with produce that begs to share the table.
Lured by warming waters, schools of striped bass and bluefish and shoals of summer flounder begin to show up, reaching their peak around August. When fall's chill sets in, they're off, not to return for another year, which is why they're so prized for catching and eating.
Of all the warm-weather visitors, the summer flounder (also called fluke) is one of the most delicate-tasting. Part of the flatfish family (which includes sole), summer flounder swim on their sides and spend most of their time lying in wait for prey near the ocean floor.
Like other flatfish, summer flounder have two narrow fillets running along both sides of their backbone, thus yielding four pearly-white portions with a tender flake and mild sweetness. The average adult weighs 2 to 5 pounds and measures 17 to 25 inches long. Because of their size, combined with how they wrestle on the hook, summer flounder make a satisfying catch.
Even more dogged is the striped bass (also known as rockfish). Many fishermen consider it a trophy game fish because it fights so hard on the line and can weigh up to 100 pounds. Striped bass are named for the seven or eight horizontal stripes that run along their sides from gill to tail.
Their pinkish-white flesh has a rich, meaty sweetness and pleasing moistness owing to moderate fat content. Like cod, however, their once-abundant stocks have been diminished by overfishing and pollution; this has resulted in strict quotas (check the latest regulations from your state fish and game department).
In contrast, there's a seemingly endless supply of bluefish. Bluefish hunt near the ocean's surface; during a feeding frenzy, they churn the water, which makes them easy to spot. Because they tend to strike at anything that moves and fight aggressively once hooked, they make an extremely rewarding catch -- and a tasty one, too! When extremely fresh, bluefish does taste fishy. Like swordfish and tuna, bluefish has a rich, beefy flavor due to the abundance of natural oils, which are healthy and keep the flesh tender and juicy.
For cooking, summer flounder deserves the lightest touch. Steaming, pan-sautéing, or broiling help keep the dainty flesh intact, while gentle seasonings preserve its fresh, clean flavor. Striped bass has a firmer texture suitable for grilling and braising, and its rich, sweet meat pairs well with piquant ingredients like tomato and garlic. Because bluefish is so unctuous, it's particularly well suited to the grill. The sizzle and char add a pleasing smokiness to the succulent meat, which tastes fabulous with robust sauces like our garlicky herb mayonnaise.
Striped Bass with Clams, Black Olives, and Chorizo
Fish and Seafood Recipes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Using a wealth of summer ingredients -- tomatoes, fennel, oregano, and fresh clams -- this one-pot dish essentially steam-braises the bass to juicy perfection. Because the chorizo and olives are savory and the clams contain natural brine, this recipe calls for no added salt.
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 medium red onion, peeled and chopped
- 1/2 cup diced fennel
- 6 ounces cooked or cured chorizo, thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup oil-cured pitted black olives
- 1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano
- 1/2 cup fruity white wine
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped
- 1-1/2 pounds skinless, boneless striped bass fillets (about 1 inch thick)
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 16 littleneck clams, scrubbed and rinsed
Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high setting. Add onion, fennel, chorizo, olives, and oregano and sauté; until vegetables have softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in wine and scrape bottom of pan to remove any brown bits that are stuck to the bottom. Stir in garlic and tomatoes and cook 5 minutes.
Arrange striped bass fillets over tomato mixture and season with pepper. Scatter clams over fish and cover pan. Braise over medium-low heat until fish is cooked through and clams have opened, 10 to 12 minutes. Using a large serving spoon, transfer portions of fish and tomato mixture into shallow bowls. Spoon more tomato mixture and clams around fish.
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Crispy Summer Flounder over Scallion-Corn Ragout
Fish and Seafood Recipes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Toasted wheat germ and cornmeal combine to create a light, crunchy crust for this delicate white fish, which also tastes wonderful with homemade tartar sauce. Soaking the fillets in milk before cooking plumps the meat and helps keep it moist.
- 1-1/2 pounds boneless summer flounder (fluke) fillets
- 1 cup milk
- 2 bunches scallions (about 6), trimmed and thinly sliced
- 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 4 cups corn kernels (about 5 ears)
- 1/2 cup toasted wheat germ
- 1/3 cup cornmeal
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
- 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1/2 cup packed small fresh basil leaves
- 1/4 cup minced chives
- 1 large lemon, cut into 6 wedges
Place fish in a large dish and cover with milk. Refrigerate 30 minutes.
In a large skillet over medium heat, cook scallions in 2 tablespoons oil until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in garlic and corn; cook 3 minutes. Reduce heat to very low, cover, and keep warm.
Combine wheat germ, cornmeal, salt, and cayenne in a large, flat dish. Whisk to mix. Remove fish from refrigerator and drain off milk. Dredge each fillet in wheat germ-cornmeal mixture and place on a baking sheet. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, nonstick skillet over high setting. Place half the fillets in pan and cook 3 minutes on each side, adding more oil and adjusting heat slightly if they start to brown too quickly. Transfer cooked fillets to a platter. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and cook remaining flounder.
Just before serving, stir basil and chives into corn ragout. Season with salt to taste. Spoon some ragout onto individual plates and top each serving with a fish fillet and lemon wedge. Let guests squeeze lemon over fish at the table.
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Grilled Bluefish with Summer Green Goddess Dressing
Fish and Seafood Recipes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
In the early 1920s, a chef at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco decided to honor actor George Arliss by creating a dressing named after the play in which Arliss was appearing, The Green Goddess. We’ve jazzed up the original version of this dressing by adding more herbs, lemon juice, and mustard to create a tasty topping for grilled bluefish.
- 1 large egg
- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
- 4 anchovy fillets with capers (or 4 fillets and 1/4 teaspoon capers)
- 4 cloves garlic
- 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon
- 1 cup olive oil, divided
- Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1-1/2 pound fillet of bluefish (about 1-1/2 inches thick)
Combine first nine ingredients (through tarragon) in a blender. Add 1/4 cup oil, then cover and blend until mixture is smooth. With blender running, add remaining 3/4 cup oil in a very thin stream until mixture is thick and creamy. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Oil grill grates and preheat grill to medium. Season fillet with salt and pepper and place on a baking sheet. Evenly spread 1/3 cup or more of dressing over fish (save remaining dressing for another use). Gently slide fish, skin side down, onto grill. Close grill lid and cook 8 to 10 minutes (do not turn) or until flesh just flakes when pierced with a sharp knife.
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