Issues → September/October 2007 → Feature Stories →

Occasion: Quick Meals for the Athletes in the Family

Meatballs, chicken, and empanadas for the lacrosse players

by Annie B. Copps

Nothing eats away at a family's mealtime together like children's sports. Everywhere parents hustle from practices to games -- often one season merging into the next without a break -- all the while hoping their kids will grab a bite while tugging on their uniforms.

The Malpiedes and the Lynches of Needham, Massachusetts, know about the tug and pull of balancing kids' sports with family time. With seven young boys ages 7 to 16 between them, John and Marjorie Malpiede and Chris and Maria Elena Lynch often found themselves huddled on the sidelines and stands next to each other. Chris, a lacrosse coach, was often on the field, as well. Talk of hockey, baseball, and lacrosse quickly turned to the two couples' other favorite subject: food and wine. Soon the families created their own pastime: planning meals together that coincided with their sons' sports lives.

"We often rely upon one another to get the boys to a game or a practice when our schedules overlap," says Marjorie, "and at the end of the day, we all end up at the same house relaxing and cooking."

Most of the time, the meals are impromptu. "The boys are really good about being adventurous with food," says John. "But we try and do simple dinners that all of us will like. If it gets too complicated or time-consuming, the boys, who are very hungry, get antsy -- and you really don't want seven hungry boys waiting for a meal. That's just asking for trouble!"

The two couples take turns hosting. "I love having people in the house, and while we definitely have grown-up dinner parties, the reality is that most of our entertaining is for the 16-and-under set," says Marjorie. John designed their kitchen with a large granite island (18 by 4 feet), offering plenty of room for preparation and for family and visitors to pull up chairs. "Whoever's cooking isn't separated from the rest of the group," says John. "I can talk and be with everyone while making any meal. The kids like to watch and participate, and this design really lets that happen."

John's cooking is mostly of a Mediterranean bent, while Maria Elena turns to her native Peru for inspiration. "It's the food I grew up on, so I know it well," she says. "I want to be sure my boys know about it, too, plus it's delicious."

The men share an interest in wine and have dedicated cellars in their homes. "We definitely enjoy our wine," explains Chris, "but we don't go over the top with our collections or get too worried about what to serve and when. Both John and I open what we want when we want."

As for the seven hungry young athletes, they're clearly interested in the food and the cooking, but their real goal is to eat. And they do, with gusto.

Spanish Lessons

A few items in these recipes may be new to you. If you have trouble finding ingredients, be sure to ask at your local grocery -- many markets have Latin American sections. Or online, try: store.amigofoods.com or latinmerchant.com

Aji is a hot pepper particular to Peruvian cooking. It packs a strong kick, but it's mellowed by a round, sweet flavor. Aji is often sold in jars as a puree. Substitute by pureeing one roasted red bell pepper and one roasted jalapeño.

Maiz Cancha is a traditional Peruvian snack made from large dried corn kernels. Give them a quick fry for a toasty, crunchy, popcorn-like flavor (although they won't puff up like popcorn).

Queso Fresco is a fresh, lightly tangy farmer's cheese. A mild feta is a good substitute.

Yuca, also spelled yucca, is a root vegetable, also called cassava, manioc, and madioca, depending on where you are in South America. Yuca plays the same role as potato -- mashed, fried, boiled, or stewed.

Empanadas

Meat Recipes

Preparation Time: 55 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 75 minutes

Yield: 12 empanadas

Make these South American favorites ahead of time and freeze them, or bake them to order. This recipe makes portions that work well as a hearty first course or a small lunch, but you can make them even smaller and serve them as one-bite cocktail snacks.

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/2 onion, diced small
• 1/2 pound ground beef
• 2 tablespoons chopped raisins
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon aji puree
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 6 green or black olives, pitted and roughly chopped
• 1 hardboiled egg, roughly chopped
• 1/2 tablespoon flour, plus extra for surfaces
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 recipe chilled Empanada Dough
• 1 tablespoon water
• 2 egg whites, beaten

In a medium sauté pan, warm oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook until it begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add beef, breaking it into small pieces while stirring, and cook about 5 minutes. Add raisins, garlic, aji, salt, paprika, cumin, and olives. Sauté, stirring often, until meat cooks through, about 5 minutes. Add chopped egg and set aside.

In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine flour and water. Pour into pan mixture and cook 1 to 2 minutes to thicken. Remove from heat and bring to room temperature.

Heat oven to 425°. Cut dough in half and refrigerate other half until ready to use. On a lightly floured work surface, roll dough out to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 4- to 5-inch round cutter, cut dough into circles. Place 1-1/2 tablespoons meat filling onto one half of dough round. Dip your finger in water and run along the outer edge of the dough. Fold dough in half and press edges together gently to seal. Crimp edges with a fork or with your fingers as you would a piecrust. Repeat with remaining dough and filling.

Brush empanadas with egg whites. Place on a baking sheet and bake 12 to 15 minutes or until golden brown.

Empanada Dough

• 1-1/2 cups flour
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, chilled
• 9 ounces cream cheese, chilled

In a standing mixer or by hand, combine ingredients just until a soft dough comes together. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes. (You may also freeze dough.)

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Maiz Cancha

Miscellaneous Recipes | Vegetables Recipes

Preparation Time: 15 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 15 minutes

Yield: about 3 cups.

This crunchy, salty snack is simple to make and impossible to pass up.

• Vegetable oil
• 1 package chulpe corn kernels (Maria Elena uses Goya brand)
• Kosher or sea salt

In a heavy saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, heat 1/8 inch oil (about 3 tablespoons) on medium high. When oil is very hot but not smoking, add corn; cover and shake pan often. Corn will start popping (it won't puff like traditional popcorn). Continue cooking and shaking until corn is deep golden brown and most popping has stopped, about 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Season with salt to taste and serve hot.

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Fried Yuca with Huancaina Sauce

Vegetables Recipes

Preparation Time: 35 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 75 minutes

Yield: about 30 pieces.

Hot and crisp on the outside, tender and slightly sweet inside, yuca (a.k.a. yucca or cassava) makes for a fun twist on French fries.

• 1 3-pound package peeled, frozen yuca (Maria Elena uses Goya brand)
• Vegetable oil
• Kosher or sea salt
• Huancaina Sauce

In a large saucepan, boil yuca tubers about 30 minutes or until softened but still holding their shape. Drain and cool to room temperature. Slice into 1/2-inch-thick batons (shapes will be irregular). Remove any tough fibers in the center.

Warm about 1/4 inch oil in a medium-size pan over high heat. Fry yuca on both sides until light brown, about 2 minutes per side. (Don't overcook.) Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Serve hot, with Huancaina Sauce to taste.

Huancaina Sauce

• 24 ounces cottage cheese
• 8 ounces queso fresco
• 3 teaspoons aji puree
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric
• Juice of 3 lemons

Place all ingredients in a food processor or blender and puree. Yield: 3 cups

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John's Tomato Sauce with Meatballs

Sauces Recipes | Pasta Recipes | Meat Recipes

Preparation Time: 35 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 85 minutes

Yield: Sauce: 8 cups Meatballs: 12 servings

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
• 1 28-ounce can pureed tomatoes
• 1 red bell pepper, roasted andfinely chopped or pureed
• 10 leaves fresh basil
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 12 servings Meatballs

In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, warm oil and gently sauté garlic about 3 minutes; don't let it brown. Add tomatoes and bell pepper and stir well. Raise heat to high. Once sauce begins to bubble, lower heat to simmer and cook 30 minutes.

Fold in basil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add meatballs to sauce and cook together 15 minutes before serving. Serve over cooked spaghetti or linguine with grated Parmesan cheese.

Meatballs

• 1 garlic clove
• 1 red bell pepper, roasted
• 1/4 pound sliced prosciutto, roughly chopped
• 5 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 pound ground veal
• 1/2 pound ground beef (85-90% lean)
• 1 sweet onion (Vidalia or Walla Walla; substitute yellow onion), finely chopped
• 1 cup unseasoned bread crumbs
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for the table
• 2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 eggs

Heat oven to 350°. Place garlic and bell pepper in a food processor and pulse a few times to break them up. Add prosciutto and basil and pulse until well combined. Remove to a large bowl. Add remaining ingredients (through eggs) and mix with your hands until well combined. Form into golf ball-sized balls. Place on a baking sheet and bake about 15 minutes.

John uses prosciutto as the pork component for its rich texture and flavor.

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Chicken Cutlets

Poultry Recipes

Preparation Time: 60 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 90 minutes

Yield: 12 servings

• 12 chicken breasts
• 6 eggs
• 4 cups unseasoned bread crumbs
• 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
• 2 tablespoons dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon dried thyme
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Vegetable oil

Heat oven to 350°. Lay chicken breasts between sheets of plastic wrap and pound gently with flat side of a meat mallet to 1/2-inch thickness.

In a shallow casserole or pie plate, beat eggs. In a separate casserole or pie plate, combine bread crumbs, cheese, herbs, salt, and pepper. In batches, coat chicken breasts with egg, shaking off excess. Add to bread-crumb mixture and press to coat chicken. Set aside on a plate; cover and refrigerate 30 minutes.

Pour 1/4 inch oil into a large sauté pan. When oil is shimmering but not smoking, add chicken breasts to pan (don't crowd them) and fry 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Place on a baking sheet and bake 10 minutes.

Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve with meatballs and sauce.

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Caramel-Covered Apples

Candy Recipes | Fruit Recipes

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 15 minutes

Yield: 8 apples

• 1 14-ounce package individually wrapped caramels
• 2 tablespoons milk
• 8 apples, washed and dried

In a large saucepan over low heat, melt caramels and milk, stirring often. (Or in a medium glass bowl, melt caramels and milk in microwave.) Place wooden sticks into stem ends of apples and dip into caramel until well coated. Place on a wax-paper-lined baking sheet or platter. Let caramel apples set and cool, about 10 minutes, before eating.

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