Issues → September/October 2007 → Food →

Eat Your Local Vegetables

Recipes for fresh-picked local corn, leeks, squash

by Annie B. Copps

Nurtured all summer long and tended to perfection, piles of red and yellow tomatoes in every shape and size await your inspection. Neat stacks of white and golden corn nestled in silk ... hard-shelled squashes and pumpkins ... fragrant herbs, dirt-dusted potatoes, luscious melons ... Don't hold back -- indulge freely in the gifts of early autumn.

Eating locally is never easier than right now, so get to know these fresh, sun-ripened ingredients. Dig out your favorite veggie recipes, but try some new ones, too -- such as these nine fun and easy ways to put the season's harvest on your table.

For suggestions, we turned to a few friends: television chef, author, and avid gardener Mary Ann Esposito; cookbook author and food writer Clara Silverstein, offering a selection from her latest recipe collection; and longtime editor Judith Jones (who saved Julia Child's first cookbook from an early demise and helped launch The French Chef's long career).

If you live in farm country, produce stands are hard to miss, but even city dwellers can take advantage of a ripe and ready bumper crop thanks to farmers' markets. Or if grocery stores and supermarkets are more your style, ask your produce manager to carry local crops -- they'll be fresher and tastier, and you'll be supporting your community's economy.

Support Your Local Growers

Consult your community's chamber of commerce for locations of farm stands and farmers' markets in your area, or visit the following Web sites for further information, lists, and links to additional resources.

Maine

getrealmaine.com/buy/farmers_markets.html

getrealmaine.com/buy/farmstands.html

snakeroot.net/mffm

mofga.org

Vermont

vermontagriculture.com/farmmkt.htm

vermontagriculture.com/csalist.html

nofavt.org/farms.php

nofavt.org/markets-list.php

New Hampshire

nhfma.org

nhmade.com/foodsearch.cfm

Massachusetts

massfarmersmarkets.org

massfarmstands.com

mass.gov/agr/massgrown/index.htm

Connecticut

ctnofa.org/programs/markets.php

ctnofa.org/FarmersMarkets.htm

ctfarmersmarkets.com

Rhode Island

farmfresh.org

nofari.org/markets.php

dem.ri.gov/programs/bnatres/agricult/markets.htm

Latin-Style Grilled Corn

Vegetables Recipes

Preparation Time: 15 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 15 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

This street-food favorite from Mexico really caught our eye and our tastebuds. You can kick up (or turn down) the heat by adjusting the amount of chili you use (we like it spicy).

• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 1/4 pound queso fresco or mild feta cheese, finely crumbled (about 1 cup)
• 6 ears fresh corn
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 teaspoons chili powder
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Prepare grill to medium-high heat. On a large plate or in a small casserole dish, use a fork to combine butter and lime juice. Form into a corn-ear-sized strip in the center. On a separate plate or in a separate small casserole dish, arrange cheese in a single layer, and set aside.

Grill corn 5 to 8 minutes, turning often, until lightly blackened (but not charred). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Roll corn in softened butter, then roll in cheese. Sprinkle with chili powder and chopped cilantro. Serve immediately.

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Leek 'Pasta' with Garlicky Shrimp

Fish and Seafood Recipes | Pasta Recipes

Preparation Time: 60 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 60 minutes

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

With the shrimp's pink curls and the leeks' long, pale-green tangles, this is a beautiful dish. You'll need a pasta machine to pull it off, but you'll love the innovative presentation -- a fun new way to cook flavorful leeks.

• 4 large, long leeks
• 1-1/2 pounds medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon dried red chili pepper flakes
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
• 1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1/4 cup toasted unseasoned bread crumbs

Trim root tip and all but 3 inches off green ends of leeks (you should have at least 10 inches of usable leeks). Split leeks in half lengthwise and place in a large bowl of cold water. Wash leeks gently but thoroughly, separating the layers. Remove from water and dry completely.

Spread each layer open as much as possible without splitting. Pass layers carefully, one at a time, through the spaghetti setting of your pasta machine (tough outer pieces may take awhile). Chop small inner layers into 1/4-inch pieces. Place cut leeks into a large bowl of chilled water and set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil and cover.

Warm a large sauté pan over medium heat. Season shrimp with salt and pepper and set aside. Add butter to pan; when foaming subsides, raise heat to high and add shrimp. Cook shrimp as is (without stirring) 1 minute. Turn shrimp and cook 2 minutes more. Remove shrimp to a large bowl and set aside.

Add minced garlic, chopped leeks, and chili pepper flakes to pan; cook until leeks are softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add wine and lemon juice and scrape any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Bring sauce mixture to a boil, about 1 minute or until slightly thickened.

Add leek “pasta” to boiling water and cook 2 minutes. While pasta is cooking, stir parsley and zest into sauce. Using a slotted spoon, scoop leeks from boiling water directly into sauté pan (it's OK if some of the water splashes into the pan). Stir well to coat with sauce and cook about 1 minute. Add shrimp to pan and cook 1 minute, tossing to combine ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place on a serving platter and sprinkle with bread crumbs.

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Curried Butternut Squash

Vegetables Recipes

Preparation Time: 25 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 45 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

Like many farm stand recipes, this one makes for a quick yet deeply satisifying vegetarian (and vegan) meal.

• 1 small butternut squash, peeled, deseeded, and diced into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 small onion, thinly sliced
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 2 teaspoons curry powder
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
• 3 cups cooked rice
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 1/3 cup toasted pistachios or pinenuts
• 1 orange, peeled and roughly chopped
• Garnish: 1 tablespoon chopped scallions or chives

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, sauté butternut squash and onion in oil until slightly softened, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add spices and bay leaf, stir well, and cook about 2 minutes longer, stirring ingredients a few times (spices will become very fragrant).

Add stock and bring to a boil. Lower heat to simmer, cover pan, and cook 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove bay leaf, fold in rice, raisins, pistachios, and orange pieces. Cook 1 to 2 minutes to heat rice. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with chopped scallions or chives.

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Bruschetta with Roasted Bell Peppers

Meatless Recipes | Vegetables Recipes

Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 45 minutes

Yield: about 40 pieces

Serve as an appetizer or with main dishes.

• 2 large red bell peppers
• 2 large yellow bell peppers
• 6 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
• 2 large garlic cloves, minced
• 2 baguettes cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds
• 1-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 whole garlic cloves
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Char peppers directly over gas flame, on grill, or under broiler until blackened on all sides. Place peppers in a metal bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let stand 10 minutes, then peel.

Set a strainer over bowl. Holding peppers over bowl to catch juices, remove and discard seeds and ribs. Cut peppers into thin strips and add to bowl with reserved juices. (If you want to prepare peppers a day ahead, just cover and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before using.)

Add basil and minced garlic to peppers and set aside. Preheat broiler. Arrange bread slices on a baking sheet. Broil until toasted, about 2 minutes. Turn bread slices over and brush them with oil. Broil until golden, about 2 minutes. Rub each bread slice with whole garlic cloves. Top with a spoonful of pepper mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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Tomato Salsa

Vegetables Recipes | Meatless Recipes

Preparation Time: 25 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 25 minutes

Yield: about 3 cups

• 2 cups finely chopped ripe, fresh tomatoes (combine red and yellow for a pretty effect)
• 1 small red onion, finely diced (about 1/2 cup)
• 2 serrano or jalapeño chilies, finely minced
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
• Large pinch white pepper (about 1/8 teaspoon)
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and toss gently to mix. Cover and let stand about 1 hour (refrigerate if more than 1 hour). Serve as an appetizer with chips or as a topping for grilled steak or chicken.

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Jeremy's Fall Vegetable Hash

Vegetables Recipes

Preparation Time: 60 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 90 minutes

Yield: Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Jeremy Sewall is the chef we turn to for scrumptious seafood at Lineage, his Brookline, Massachusetts, restaurant. Here he offers an excellent autumn accompaniment: a delicious and easy way to make good use of just about every part of your farm stand bounty.

• 1 pound fingerling potatoes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1-1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 1-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 small butternut squash, peeled, deseeded, and diced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 2 parsnips, peeled and diced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1-1/2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1/2 cup dried cranberries
• 1 cup baby spinach
• Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Slice potatoes into quarters and place in a roasting pan. Toss with olive oil and rosemary; bake 20 to 30 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool to room temperature and set aside.

In a large nonstick pan over medium-high setting, melt butter and heat until it begins to brown. Add squash and parsnips; cook until they soften and begin to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add shallots and minced garlic; sauté, stirring often, until shallots are translucent, about 2 minutes. (Be careful not to brown the garlic.)

Add cranberries, spinach, and potatoes, stirring often; cook until spinach has wilted. Season with lemon juice, zest, salt, and pepper. Serve warm.

Adapted from Jeremy Sewall's recipe in The Boston Chef's Table by Clara Silverstein (Falcon/Globe Pequot Press, 2007)

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Zucchine Secche (Zucchini Chips)

Vegetables Recipes | Miscellaneous Recipes

Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 18 hours

Yield: about 3 cups

Translation: dried zucchini chips, from the home kitchen of Ciao Italia chef Mary Ann Esposito. “This recipe was hatched from desperation when my zucchini plants -- which seemed to have nine lives (and then some) -- conquered my garden,” she explains. “Dried zucchini chips are a great way to use up that army of green, and they make the best healthful snacks. Pick your zucchini when they're about 6 inches long. Take care to dry the slices well, until they're as crisp as potato chips, so they won't mold.”

• 2 small zucchini, washed, dried, and thinly sliced (1/8-inch-thick rounds)
• 2 tablespoons dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt
• 2 teaspoons ground cayenne pepper (optional)

Heat oven to 175 degrees. Lay zucchini in single layers on wire racks set on baking sheets. Bake, turning once or twice, 12 to 18 hours or until crisp. (After 12 hours, check every other hour for doneness.) Or place slices in a dehydrator and dry according to the manufacturer's directions. When they're done, remove them to a bowl and set aside. In a separate small bowl, combine oregano, salt, and cayenne, if desired. Add spice mix to chips and toss gently. Let cool to room temperature. Place in glass jars and add any leftover spice mix. Cap the jars and store in a cool, dark place, up to several months.

Adapted from Celebrations Italian Style by Mary Ann Esposito (Hearst Books, 1995)

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Gooseberry Fool

Miscellaneous Recipes

Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 60 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

We're proud to say we're fools for goose-berries -- those tart little pale-green and yellow orbs (or their sweeter red varieties). They make a terrific jam, but if you can't wait, enjoy this simple dessert.

• 2 cups fresh gooseberries, papery outer skin removed
• 2 cups water
• 1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar
• 3/4 cup heavy cream

In a small saucepan over high heat, add gooseberries to water and bring to a boil. Lower to simmer and cook 8 to 10 minutes, until tender. Remove from heat and stir in 1/2 cup sugar; mash gently to incorporate. Taste and add more sugar if desired. Let cool to room temperature.

In a separate bowl, whip cream to soft peaks. Fold in gooseberries. Spoon into sherbet or cocktail glasses and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 1 hour.

Adapted from The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food by Judith Jones (Alfred A. Knopf, 2007)

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Melon Sorbet

Miscellaneous Recipes | Fruit Recipes

Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Start to Finish Time: 2 hours

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

This refreshing frozen treat captures the rich, sweet flavors of a local favorite.

• 1-1/2 cups water
• 1 cup sugar
• 5 cups chopped, very ripe honeydew melon or cantaloupe
• Zest and juice of 1 orange
• Garnish: 6 to 8 whole fresh mint leaves (optional)

In a medium saucepan over high heat, combine water and sugar; cook until sugar dissolves. Cool to room temperature and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, combine melon, orange zest, juice, and sugar mixture. Place half of melon mixture in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Pour into bowl of an ice-cream maker.

Repeat with remaining melon mixture. Then freeze in ice-cream maker according to manufacturer's directions.

Scoop frozen sorbet into dessert dishes and garnish with mint leaves if desired.

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