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Homegrown: Cheese Whizzes
Goat's milk cheeses from New England farms
by Christie Matheson
We know Vermont does cheddar better than just about anyone, but cheese making in New England goes beyond cows-only. Around here -- where the changing seasons are compatible with raising healthy goats that produce milk almost year-round -- we're crafting beautiful dairy products thanks to our domesticated does as well.
Just because you've met one goat, don't think you know them all. Goat's-milk cheeses are varied and versatile, ranging from mild and creamy to firm and tangy. Goat's milk can be turned into basic chèvre (fresh, simple, soft-yet-structured), brined into feta, aged to different degrees of intensity, "cooked twice" to make ricotta, or infused with an array of flavors, from savory herbs to chocolate. Local artisans do it all.
Goat's-milk cheeses are welcome additions to appetizer plates, providing a nice contrast to both hard and runny cow's-milk cheeses. They're delicious crumbled over salads or dolloped on soups, and they add a distinctive flavor to pizzas and flatbreads. Try pairing plain goat's-milk cheeses with fruit preserves or homemade jam on toast or crackers -- or let a local goat's-milk cheese star in a savory-sweet hors d'oeuvre.
For more information on goat's milk and other local cheeses, read "The New American Cheese" by Laura Werlin (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2000; $35), or visit these Web sites: uvm.edu/sustainableagriculture; newenglandcheese.com; newenglandgrown.com
New England-Style Chèvre, Feta, and More
FARMS
Look for these brand names at your local market.
Blue Ledge Farm, Salisbury, VT; 802-247-0095 blueledgefarm.com
Does' Leap, East Fairfield, VT; 802-827-3046; vtcheese.com
Hillman Farm, Colrain, MA hillmanfarm.com
Seal Cove Farm, Lamoine, ME; 207-667-7127 maingoatcheese.com
Valley View Farm, Topsfield, MA valleyviewcheese.com
Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, Websterville, VT 802-479-9371 vtbutterandcheeseco.com
Westfield Farm, Hubbardston, MA 978-928-5110; chevre.com
SHOPS
The Cheese Iron, 200 Route 1, Scarborough, ME; 207-883-4057 thecheeseiron.com
Farmstead, 186 Wayland Ave., Providence, RI; 401-274-7177; farmsteadinc.com
Formaggio Kitchen, 244 Huron Ave., Cambridge, MA; 617-354-4750 formaggiokitchen.com
Milk & Honey Bazaar, 3838 Main Rd., Tiverton, RI; 401-624-1974 milkandhoneybazaar.com
Goat's-Milk Cheese Crostini with Honey
Miscellaneous Recipes | Bread Recipes
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Start to Finish Time: 25 minutes
Yield: 12 crostini
This is a great recipe for your repertoire. Sweeten the cheese with honey as we do here, or top it with minced fresh herbs, pieces of dried fruit (such as figs, apricots, or cranberries), or roasted red peppers instead.
- 12 1/2-inch baguette slices
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh local goat's-milk cheese
- 3 tablespoons honey
- Kosher or sea salt and
- freshly ground black pepper
Heat oven to 400°. Brush baguette slices lightly with olive oil. Toast for about 8 minutes, until golden. Remove from oven and let cool slightly. Top each toast slice with 1-1/2 teaspoons cheese. Return to the oven and bake 7 minutes, until cheese is warm and very soft. Drizzle crostini with honey; then sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.
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