Issues → January/February 2008 → Home & Garden →
Real Solutions: Gardening Indoors
Countertop gardens and tree care in winter
In winter there's nothing I miss more than fresh herbs and salad greens from my summer vegetable garden. How difficult is it to grow them indoors?
M.L., Narragansett, RI"Not that difficult!" says Ethan Holmes of New England Hydroponics. His best-selling countertop garden, the AeroGarden from AeroGrow, is always on display in his Southampton, Massachusetts, store. Thanks to this compact system (16x10.5x21 inches), you can grow luscious gourmet herbs, salad greens, and tomatoes all year round.
The basic AeroGarden (white or black dome) sells for $149.95 and comes with simple, complete directions: Pop preseeded pods into growing holes, fill the chamber to the water line, add nutrients, and in about a month you'll have fresh herbs, which you can harvest for three or four months. After that, you can switch to growing your own lettuce or vine-ripened tomatoes.
A sensor tells you when to add nutrients and more water, and the built-in timer regulates light cycles (16 hours on, 8 hours off). For more information, visit: nehydro.com
-- Polly Bannister, Yankee Home Editor
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The trees in the area next to my yard have been overrun by vines, and the ground is covered with evergreen undergrowth. The vines still have some orange berries from fall; the lower plants were topped with white flowerheads last spring. What can I do to save my woods?
J.F., Worcester, MAInvasive plant species are dominating natural areas more and more. Fortunately, the two you describe are relatively easy to manage. The vine is Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus); the groundcover is garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata). Both plants thrive in shady areas, spread rapidly, and choke out desirable plants. From late fall through early spring, these two "bad guys" are easy to identify because they stand out from other plants. Winter is an ideal time to control them.
Pull the bittersweet vines off the trees and follow them to the ground where they're rooted. If the soil isn't frozen, pull up the roots, following the orange pieces until they're lifted from the ground.
If the earth is frozen, snip the stem low and carefully apply a poison ivy or brush control formulation (ask at your local garden center) to each cut stem. Then watch for any seedlings that may germinate each year and pull them up while they're small.
Garlic mustard is a biennial, growing foliage the first year, producing flowers and seeds the next. In early winter, its first-year evergreen foliage is easy to spot against the otherwise-bare landscape. To control it most effectively, you'll need a targeted chemical-management program combined with physical removal.
In early winter, apply a Roundup-type contact herbicide, coating all the leaves. Over the winter, the plants will absorb the chemical and die; next spring, you'll have to pull up only the growth the spray missed.
Make sure you remove every surviving plant early in the season, before they can produce flowers and seeds. (Each plant can generate hundreds of new seedlings.) Seeds already in the soil are viable for several years, so plan on repeating this process each winter until you see no more germination.
Generally, I like to rely on natural, low-input lawn and garden maintenance around my home -- but invasive plants present unusual challenges. You'll actually manage many such species more successfully, and often with less damage to the environment, with chemicals, if you use them properly.
Remember to do your homework beforehand: Understand the target you want to control, consult expert sources for possible alternatives, learn how the chemical product works, and evaluate the risks and benefits.
-- R. Wayne Mezitt, Chairman, Weston Nurseries, Hopkinton, MA
Do you have a question about your own New England home or garden? Go online! Join our home forum and tell us about your project or share your advice; trade planting and growing tips with other Yankee readers in the garden forum. Start at: YankeeMagazine.com/forum


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