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IssuesMarch/April 2008FoodEating New Englandy

21. Clam Cakes

clam cakes

Flo's Clam Shack

4 Wave Ave.
Middletown, RI
401-847-8141; quahog.org/cuisine

Ocean State tradition has it that the clams are hard to find in clam cakes, but there's always a tang from the clam juice in the fritterlike batter. The trick is to keep it light and to deep-fry these treats so they come out dry and not greasy. Flo's has been doing it for 70 years, so these folks have got it down.

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