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IssuesMarch/April 2008FoodEating New Englandy

12. Jonnycakes

jonnycakes

Jigger's Diner

145 Main St.
East Greenwich, RI
401-884-5388; quahog.org/cuisine

The jonnycake wars between East Bay and West Bay/South County are all about style: thin and made with cold milk, or thick and made with hot water. Jigger's (in West Bay) are dense and chewy, made by pouring boiling water over stone-ground white-flint cornmeal. Savory with fried eggs or sweet with maple syrup, these cakes stick to your ribs.

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