Issues → May/June 2008 → Interact → 10 Things to Do →

A Sampler of New England's Prettiest Towns

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(page 4 of 5)

In a town first settled in the 1660s, there's lots of history to absorb. Some of the museums feature the architecture of the house, others emphasize a particular collection such as silver or textiles. While Deerfield focuses on its history, it does so without the costumed guides of Plimoth Plantation or Old Sturbridge Village. A walk down Main Street takes you past houses built in the 1700s, with their dark facades, and Deerfield Academy, with its flurry of prep- school students. A walk in autumn surrounded by yellow leaves is especially pleasant.

If the number and scope of the houses is a little daunting to you (or you have a car of fidgety kids), at least visit the Memorial Hall Museum, which sums up tidily the town's history through photographs, paintings, and historic costumes. Most celebrated in its collection is the doorway of the John Sheldon House, which was razed in the mid-19th century. The door, however, warranted saving because it had survived the February 1704 Indian attack -- hatchet marks and poundings are still evident, still capable of sending shivers down your spine. It's all housed in a stolid brick building, built in 1798 for Deerfield Academy.

Marblehead, Massachusetts

Route 114 is a sadist's idea of a road. Yes, there are signs for its twists and bends, but they're hidden behind overgrown branches. But the payoff is well worth the frustration. For beautiful coastal settings, Marblehead is hard to beat. Downtown, settled in 1629 and known appropriately as Old Town, seems to tumble to the long harbor, which is filled with fancy yachts and ringed with lush estates and yacht clubs. If you don't own a boat or have a close friend who does, the next best view of the harbor is from Crocker Park.

Settled by fishermen from West England and the Channel Islands, Marblehead by 1649 was called "the greatest Towne for fishing in New England." By 1720 its shipowners had expanded beyond fishing into overseas trading. The oldest houses, jumbled together with minuscule gardens by the harbor, reflect the settlers' humble origins and miserly desire to save timber and preserve heat; the houses of the later shippers display 18th-century conspicuous consumption.

The layout of Marblehead follows the perverse logic of any early seaside village. Streets twist and end abruptly as they skirt the hills and rolling topography. Getting lost here -- on your way to find Front Street and the harbor -- is the point of going to Marblehead. Unfortunately many visitors get no farther than the boutiques along Washington Street, which is a shame. To help you wander, stop by the chamber of commerce's information booth for a booklet with a walking tour of town.

At some point you need to make your way to Abbot Hall to see the celebrated painting The Spirit of '76, located in the selectmen's room. Make lunch a picnic in Crocker Park, or eat a waterside meal of fish-and-chips at the Barnacle, 141 Front St., 781-631-4236.

Brewster, Massachusetts

When I begin to think that Cape Cod is all built up and way too popular, I drive Route 6A, skirting the northern rim, to be reminded that Cape Cod still has its charms. The towns along the way -- Sandwich, Barnstable, Yarmouthport -- all have handsome houses built by sea captains and town centers humming with antiques stores and markets. They also have, for some reason, an incredible number of bird carvers nesting here.