Issues → May/June 2008 → Travel →
Lake Champlain Islands
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The next bridge carries the road to Alburg Peninsula. It pokes down into the lake from Quebec and harbors Vermont's newest day-use state park: Alburg Dunes, a beautifully desolate stretch of shoreline. Just beyond, a causeway carries Vermont Route 129 over to Isle La Motte, the most remote and least populated of the Champlain Islands. The main road loafs through table-flat farmland, but the best way to see this two-by-five-mile green speck in the lake -- and the sky- and water-framed vistas surrounding it -- is via the pokey shore roads that nearly encircle it. One of them leads to Fisk Quarry Preserve, where you can see the fossilized remains of the primitive creatures that made up a 450-million-year-old reef formed in a warm tropical sea. Another road dead-ends at Vermont's most out-of-the-way accommodation and dining surprise, Ruthcliffe Lodge. Here, tucked away from everything but spectacular views, Mark and Kathy Infante welcome guests to snug, cheerful rooms, and to Italian-inspired fresh seafood dinners.
For working up an appetite, nothing beats taking out one of the inn's canoes or kayaks. One scenic three-mile round trip follows the coast down across Wait Bay to a tiny, rock-girt island just off Reynolds Point. Here, according to an old story, John Philip Sousa saw a flag snapping in the breeze and was inspired to write the instrumental arrangement for "The Star-Spangled Banner." With the great expanse of Lake Champlain spreading south past the horizon, North Hero to port and the rugged New York shore to starboard -- and perhaps a lone heron taking wing from the shallows -- you don't have to be a march king to enjoy a sublime moment of inspiration.
More adventures: Biking in the Champlain Islands
What the Locals Know
According to Vermont photographer Skye Chalmers, windsurfers and kitesurfers flock to Sandbar State Park, Milton, exit 17 off I-89 and four miles north on Route 2, for steady northeastern breezes and few waves. For lessons or gear, visit: stormboarding.com
When You Go
What to Do
Lake Champlain Islands Chamber of Commerce
Route 2, North Hero. 800-262-5226, 802-372-8400;
champlainislands.com
Vermont State Parks
Sandbar, Grand Isle, North Hero, Knight Point, Knight Island, Alburg Dunes. 888-409-7579, 802-241-3655; vtstateparks.com
Fisk Quarry Preserve
Main St./The Main Road, Isle La Motte. 802-862-4150; ilmpt.org/preserves.html, lclt.org/guidefiskquarry.htm
Allenholm Farm
150 South St., South Hero. 802-372-5566; allenholm.com
Hackett's Orchard
86 South St., South Hero. 802-372-4848.
Snow Farm Vineyard and Winery
190 West Shore Road, South Hero. 802-372-9463; snowfarm.com
Hero's Welcome General Store and Marina
Route 2, North Hero. 802-372-4161; heroswelcome.com
New England Power Boat Service
132 Bridge Road, North Hero. 802-372-5131
Heros Aviation
Floatplane rides. Rates: $150-$175/hour; 20-30 minutes available.
237 East Shore North, Grand Isle. 802-372-6161; herosaviation.com
Where to Stay/Where to Eat
Fisk Farm
8349 West Shore Road, Isle La Motte. 802-928-3364; fiskfarm.com
North Hero House Inn and Restaurant
Route 2, North Hero. 802-372-4732; northherohouse.com
Ruthcliffe Lodge & Restaurant
1002 Quarry Road, Isle La Motte. 802-928-3200; ruthcliffe.com
Blue Paddle Bistro
316 Route 2, South Hero.
802-372-4814; bluepaddlebistro.com


Reader Comments
Comment from H BRINK on July 7, 2008
Vermont, please pass Jessica's Law.
Thank you.
Comment from on May 31, 2009
We are having family in from out of town and this trip sounds PERFECT! We live in the Saratoga Springs area and would like to take them some place close with lots of beautiful scenery. Thanks for sharing!
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