Issues → March/April 2009 → Food → Spring Recipes from New England Chefs →
Evan Mallett -- Portsmouth, NH
by Annie B. Cops
Credit: Matt Kalinowski
Evan Mallett
Black Trumpet
Portsmouth, NH
"I confess that I'm a comfort-food-loving chef, and I celebrate winter's hearty soups, stews, and braises like nobody's business," says Evan Mallett. "Yet that first murmur of spring opens up a world of freshness every year and jump-starts the creative process. That's not to say that we chefs keep our creative juices in the chest freezer for the winter--it's just an extension of what Mexican people call vuelve a la vida--'return to life.' It's something all humans are encoded to feel with the approaching vernal equinox." Evan supports local producers, but has a significant home garden. Those first radishes get his vuelve a la vida in motion.
RECIPE
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