Issues → March/April 2009 → Food → Spring Recipes from New England Chefs →
Josh Ziskin -- Brookline, MA
by Annie B. Copps
La Morra
Brookline, Massachusetts
"Oh, man--by the end of winter, it is the toughest time," says Josh Ziskin. "It's so hard to write a menu. We stick really close to what's locally available, and spring takes its time. We don't put asparagus on until it's in season, and that can take a while." But fiddleheads make the list earlier than most. "They look so cool and they jump up early," he adds. "And people are interested in them because of the cool curl."
They aren't the easiest greens to work with, Josh notes: "But they're totally worth the challenge, and as a chef, I have to address their strong texture and grassy flavor. They can overpower a dish if they aren't cooked right. I love pickling or sauteing them. It dulls the grassiness and draws out their structure--great with cured meats, salads, or a nice sharp New England cheese."
RECIPE
Reader Comments
Comment from Joyce Quinn on March 19, 2009
My aunt used all the young greens -fiddleheads among them. burdocks, dandelions etc. I only made cowslips which grew in abundance across a fence by a curving stream down through the pussywillow bushes. Served with salt and pepper, a dash of vinegar an butter they were welcome in the spring.I must admit I always felt quite daring by eating them.,although I was fairly certain they were safe to eat.
Comment from Elizabeth Ulnits on March 22, 2009
I have never tried Fiddleheads but have heard of them over the years - Can they be purchased in a supermarket??? - The recipe sounds good - Are they used as a vegetable? -Can someone tell me where i can purchase some???? - Thanks
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