Issues → March/April 2009 → Travel →
Last Green Valley: Northeastern Connecticut
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Add to that the town's River Trail, a 1.3-mile walk that hugs the meandering Quinebaug River, with interludes of rapids, kayakers, ducks, and a stone archway. And did I mention Bella's Gourmet Market, next door to 85 Main? Possibly the best gelato I've ever tasted (and I've lived in Italy). On the same block, Victoria Station Cafe offers espresso and homemade pastries, and intimate nooks where the local knitting club hangs out.
Off the Beaten Track
But of course it's the backdrop that makes the Last Green Valley special. And by now we're itching to experience a few of the 130 miles of trails crisscrossing this corner of Connecticut. Mashamoquet Brook State Park on Route 44 in Pomfret is one of countless green spots; this one offers hiking trails and dozens of picnic areas sprinkled along the water. An initial steep ascent flattens out into John Muir-like woods, ferny glens, old stone walls, and paths crossed with slithering roots. Follow the red dots to Wolf Den, where, according to local legend, Israel Putnam shot the last she-wolf in the area.
Heading farther west to intersect with Route 198, we pass campgrounds galore, but if you're in the mood for a late-day picnic, keep going to Diana's Pool in South Chaplin, a hidden spot with more than a hint of drama. Keep a sharp eye out for the small street sign pointing the way. (If you hit Route 6, you've gone too far.) Slabs of rock and giant boulders create pools, falls, and natural picnic perches. A perfect place to soak tired feet.
Continuing on to Route 6 and heading back east toward Hampton, we come to one of the most unusual places in the Last Green Valley, the largest alpaca farm in Connecticut. At Safe Haven we meet the youngest of more than 100 residents--a five-day-old cria--and the fabulously eccentric owner, transplanted Texan Edie Roxburgh. "I saw an ad in Martha Stewart," Edie recalls. "It said, 'An investment you can hug.'" Plus, the gift shop--yarns and sweaters--is an education in texture and color.
Our final green moment in the Last Green Valley? Still River Cafe in Eastford, north of Natchaug State Forest, has garnered raves from the New York Times, and its Sunday brunch earns every star. Owned and run by two former attorneys, this place treats produce with reverence, and elegance is as effortless as breathing. Husband Robert Brooks works the organic garden; wife Kara cooks and designs the dishes, some of the prettiest food you'll ever see. Bring your phone so the staff can guide you in. (Some locals may not give you directions, since Eastford was a dry town until the cafe applied for its wine and beer license.)
When we came home, we made plans to go back to the Last Green Valley, a breath of nostalgia mixed with a modern-day sensibility. There are more wildlife preserves to explore; heirloom turkeys, Highland cattle, and bison to enjoy; more villages and first-class dining to savor. I can't imagine a nicer place to get lost in, or to fall off the map while springtime emerges all around.
More information:
866-363-7226 or 860-774-330
thelastgreenvalley.org
When You Go -- Yankee-recommended places to hike, stay, eat, and shop in Connecticut's Last Green Valley
Reader Comments
Comment from Restful Paws & Rosie B's on March 9, 2009
Being members of the Last Green Valley, we find that the article does not offer equality to the entire region. We being from the Commonwealth of Massachusetts and in support of the ENTIRE HERITAGE CORRIDOR, find it rather sad that an article in this magazine either did not listen to/or decide not to bother with a portion of the corridor that is in another State. Is there a specific reason for punishing the members of The Last Green Valley that are in Massachusetts or is there going to be a follow up piece to allow all to try a "taste" of the "rest of The Last Green Valley"?
Barbara, Maria< Raymond & Rosie Korny
Relaxation Hosts and Owners & Operators of The Inn at Restful Paws and Rosie B's Indoor Swimming for Dogs
70 Allen Hill Road Holland, MASSACHUSETTS 01521
Comment from Anne Roser on April 11, 2009
The whole point of the area is not its commercial base, but the beauty of the rolling hills and orchards and old homes and lack of commericalization. In terms of history, you forgot to mention Old Trinity Church in Brooklyn, one of the oldest standing Episcopal churches in New England and open for summer tours. The area around the Golden Lamb in Brooklyn is one of the most scenic and beautiful, yet that was not well stated. Who cares if Roger Clemons went there? How about the beautiful farm and the acres of pasture and woodlands? The Episcopal church in Pomfret, CT near the two prep schools had Tiffany windows...another fact that was not mentioned. While you did highlight some central items, you also missed a lot.
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