Issues → May/June 2009 → Food →
Best Ethnic Food in New England
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CUBANO, Soul de Cuba
The Cuban sandwich (layers of ham, roast pork, cheese, and pickles) has made its way to the menus of many an all-American pub, but Cuban-born brothers Jesus and Robert Puerto and cofounder Yoon Kim offer the definitive version at Soul de Cuba. It's the best we've ever eaten. Que rico indeed. 283 Crown St., New Haven, CT. 203-498-2822; souldecuba.com
WIENER SCHNITZEL, The Green Barn
Originally from Vienna (Wien), flattened veal cutlets get a breadcrumb dip, then a quick pan-fry. A good Wiener schnitzel is crispy yet fork-tender and buttery. The Green Barn's traditional preparation and its chicken variation are served with a jäeger sauce. 5 Hampstead Rd., Salem, NH. 603-893-3780; greenbarnrestaurant.com
LAHMEJUNE, Massis Bakery
Featuring a round sheet of paper-thin dough layered with Mediterranean ingredients, lahmejune is sometimes called Armenian pizza. Granted, the spreadlike topping does contain ground-up tomatoes, green peppers, and onions, along with beef, chicken, lamb, or just vegetables. Massis Bakery has been making its lahmejune since 1938, and all four varieties are utterly addictive. 569 Mount Auburn St., Watertown, MA. 617-924-0537; massisbakery.com
CROISSANTS, Rosemont Market
Oh-so-light and airy on the inside, flaky on the outside, croissants may have won more people over to the infinite subtleties of French cuisine than bouillabaisse, cassoulet, or coq au vin combined. The house-made ones at Rosemont Market are full of flavor, with intriguing layers of texture. C'est magnifique. 559 Brighton Ave., Portland, ME; 207-774-8129
JAMAICAN PATTIES, Scotts' Jamaican Bakery
These treats are akin to Cornish pasties, those turnover-like meat pies that fit so snugly in your hand. Hartford's Albany Avenue is strewn with bakeries and small eateries offering a variety of patties. One constant is turmeric in the yellowy dough. Scotts' patties are nongreasy pockets of shredded chicken with just a hint of a pepper kick. 1344 Albany Ave., Hartford, CT. 860-247-3855; scottsjamaicanbakery.com
PIEROGI, Staropolska
These boiled Polish dumplings are made in savory versions, filled with mushrooms, sauerkraut, cheese, or meat, and in sweet versions, with dried fruit or fruit jams. Traditionally made at home for festive occasions, especially Christmas Eve (Wigilia), pierogi may be enjoyed all year long at Staropolska. The pierogi here are large and plump, pan-fried in butter. The surprise treat is the dessert pierogi--filled with a summery burst of raspberry. 252 Broad St., New Britain, CT. 860-612-1711; staropolska.net
CHURRASCO, Gauchos
Churrasco is the Brazilian method of slow-roasting meats on a spit; a churrascarria is a Brazilian-style steakhouse. Gauchos is one of the best, owing to quality cuts of meat, skillful preparation, and a number of choices: beef fillet wrapped in bacon, prime rib, flank steak, short ribs, sirloin, lamb, chicken, and spare ribs. 62 Lowell St., Manchester, NH. 603-669-9460; gauchosbraziliansteakhouse.com
Reader Comments
Comment from sid davidson on May 14, 2009
That is a great list. I'm going to try some of them. Waltham, Mass. has some great ethnic restaurants up and down Moody ST.
Comment from Elizabeth A. Johnson on May 14, 2009
All I can say after reading this list as I am salivating! is YUMMY! I shall print out this list and keep it with my travel information . If I am ever in the area I will check them out! Love you magazine! Have been reading it since I was 16 yrs old.Longer than I care to admit! God Bless! Elizabeth Johnson, Hunterdon County, N.J.
Comment from marianne caldwell on May 15, 2009
The addition of lime, bean sprouts, Asian basil or mint, and cilantro to the pho soup is not an American addition. It is part of the original Vietnamese recipe. It is served that way in Southeast Asia, as well as in Western countries which have a large Vietnamese population: like France. The only American adaptation I know of is substituting the original tripe or grizzle/chewy meat with more tender slices of beef. There are different sorts of pho; with tripe and beef, just beef, meatballs, or a spicy saté pho with peanuts.
Comment from Ulysses Agpaoa on June 15, 2009
Great list. Thank you.
Comment from Azar ATTURA on March 4, 2010
There's a restaurant (whoe name escapes me) in Worcester Mass that serves THE BEST Indian food I have ever eaten-- plus Apricot Almond Naan -- feathery soft and hot from the oven. YUM!
Comment from Chris Heckman on March 4, 2010
I wish you had gotten out of Massachusetts more. Only two out of twenty-seven in Maine! Portland has some great restaurants, I'm sure you could have found more than one.
Comment from Deirdre Lee on March 5, 2010
Federal Hill...can't beat it!!!
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