Issues → May/June 2009 → Interact → 10 Things to Do → Ten Great Weekends →

Block Island, RI, Weekend

by Polly Bannister

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Block Island, Rhode Island

Block Island is an 11-square-mile, pork-chop-shaped landmass off the coast of Rhode Island. It may not sound like much, but it's the biggest summer destination in America's smallest state. A few years back, The Nature Conservancy deemed the island "one of the last 12 great places in the Western Hemisphere." And for good reason: Dramatic bluffs overlook miles of pristine beaches, rare birds migrate to hundreds of freshwater ponds, sweetpeas and wild roses envelop acres of stone walls. All this you can see on foot, by bicycle, or in a kayak.

Block Island doesn't scream beauty; it whispers it.

Visitors arrive by plane or ferry. You can bring your bike on the ferry or rent one on the island, but know that it's not worth the price to take your car. Block Island is small--the kind of place that beckons to take the pace down a notch--not a landscape to be viewed from a car window.

Sounds trite to say there's something for everyone here, but it's true. The island's peace, handsome lighthouses, and breathtaking beauty make it a top destination for a romantic getaway. Hotel Manisses, with its Victorian ambience and sophisticated dining, is a perfect for lovers. Its sister property, The 1661 Inn, welcomes children of all ages and is a good choice for families. Beaches, body surfing, parasailing, biking, ice cream, and miles of nature trails make the island paradise for kids.

An old brochure in a room at the Hygeia House reads, "The protective power of sea air is very great...The air of the sea at a great distance from land is in a state of absolute purity." It takes just one weekend and you'll discover that Block Island's air is a sure tonic for body and soul.

Yankee's picks for Block Island. Click on any destination below for a map and more information.

1661 Inn and Hotel Manisses

The 1661 Inn and Hotel Manisses are family owned and part of a group of properties managed under Block Island resorts (they also have cottages, apartments, and restaurants). The 1661 Inn has a spectacular view of the Atlantic which guests enjoy from Adirondack chairs that dot the broad lawn. Their nine spacious rooms are named after Block Island's founding families. Unlike many island establishments, the 1661 is open year round. They welcome children of all ages. With gardens, a full buffet breakfast (lots of choices for kids), and a petting zoo, this is a great spot for a family vacation. If it is a romantic getaway that interests you, consider their sister property just down Spring Street, the Hotel Manisses. This restored Victorian hotel with mansard roof harks back to the days when the island was a bustling summer destination. Here they offer 17 rooms (named for shipwrecks that predate 1872), with authentic Victorian furniture. Children over the age of 12 are welcome and the hotel is open seasonally. Their dining room is renown for sophisticated fare with seafood a specialty. [DETAILS]

Atlantic Inn

With sweeping views of Old Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean, this 1879 inn offers easy access to town by foot, an expanse of open space, and proximity to the ocean—all qualities that define this quiet island, 12 miles offshore. Hosts Brad and Anne Marthens have decorated the bedrooms in a summery Victorian style, sure to inspire guests to relax. The dining room has been renowned for more than a decade is one of the best on the island. Chef Dan Puglia's menu emphasizes fresh local fish and entrées prepared in a sophisticated style. A favorite dining option is to enjoy a light meal of tapas on the wide veranda. Or, come just to enjoy a cocktail while sitting in the Adirondack chairs on the lawn that overlooks one of the East Coast’s most spectacular ocean views. [DETAILS]

Hygeia House

Rocking chairs on The Hygeia House's wide front porch glide in a gentle breeze made sweet by beach roses and honeysuckle. Inside, the plentiful windows in all 10 guest rooms (with private baths) look out on the water, and the air is so soft you want only to surrender to sleep. The building was purchased and fully restored in 1999 by Champlin Starr, the great grandson of the original owner Dr. Champlin, and his wife Lisa. The Starrs and their two young children are the innkeepers. [DETAILS]

Winfield's

Much like the island itself—unpretentious about its splendor—Winfield’s offers sophisticated island dining in a simple setting. Local fare, including lobster and scallops, graces the menu, but often in such inventive form that you’ll have to rethink what you know about it. Influenced by French, Asian, and New American cuisines. [DETAILS]

Oar

Located in New Harbor, away from the bustle of the ferry landing, The Oar is a summer landmark. Visitors seek it out just to say they’ve been there. The fun decor -- oars, oars, and more oars, each with a story -- is as memorable as the fat burgers, tasty clam chowder, and lobster rolls. [DETAILS]

Rebecca's Seafood Restaurant

No bigger than a bread box, with dainty blue lacecap hydrangeas bobbing by the door, Rebecca’s is right up the hill from the ferry. Order a lobster (or shrimp) roll and a large lemonade, and head to one of the outdoor tables so you can people watch while you eat lunch. Then come back in the evening and treat yourself to the eatery’s flavorful grilled tuna, fresh seafood, clam cakes, chowder, hamburgers, salads, wraps. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, late-night. [DETAILS]

Hodge Family Wildlife Preserve

The newest addition to Block Island’s 28-mile network of walking trails on conservation lands runs through the Hodge Family Wildlife Preserve on the north part of the island. The trail and the preserve were formally opened last summer and in typical island fashion are marked with a simple plaque in a rustic parking area. From there, a grass trail travels about a mile down to Middle Pond, at the ocean’s edge, where you can see wonderful sunsets. A trail guide, available for $2 from the Chamber of Commerce, provides information on this and other walking trails on the island. [DETAILS]

Vaill Beach

This strand is almost as far as you can get from where the ferry drops off visitors—an unfrequented stretch of beach where locals-in-the-know go when tourists have filled up Crescent Beach. With its beautiful rock formations and the Mohegan clay cliffs as backdrop, you’ll feel as though you’ve traveled far, far from the mainland. Surf can be big; swim with caution. Southeast area, down a dirt path off Lakeside Drive. [DETAILS]

Lazy Fish

For a lively mix of old and new, visit this quaint shop. It's a sure bet for vintage clothing, estate jewelry, and antique furniture. There's also an ample collection of framed Block Island photographs by K.C. Perry, which make great souvenirs. [DETAILS]

Ice Cream Place

The lemonade is squeezed while you watch, and the cookies and peanut-butter brownies are enormous. The top-notch ice cream flavor is French Silk, a light, creamy chocolate laced with bittersweet chocolate shavings. [DETAILS]

Block Island Parasail

Block Island is a migratory stop for many, many birds -- if you want to enjoy a bird's eye view of pristine beaches, try a turn at parasailing. Block Island Parasail and Watersports has been "flying" visitors for 20 years. The staff consists of USCG licensed captains who are committed to providing a safe and memorable experience. Reservations must be made on the day of sailing because the boat's activity is dependent on the weather conditions. Block Island Parasail has flown over 40,000 people (tandem and solo). [DETAILS]

North Light

The North Light sits amid gentle dunes at the end of Corn Neck Road. The handsome granite building is about a 10 minute walk from the parking area (where there is a stone memorial to Block Island's original settlers). The walk feels longer though because the sand on this spit of land is deep and we recommend you remove your shoes for the full effect. The lighthouse marks the entrances to Block Island Sound and Long Island Sound. Only the first floor is open to the public. Here a museum has artifacts that relate to Block Island's seafaring history. Also on display is a Fresnel lens formerly used in the lighthouse. Island photographer Malcolm Greenaway has captured the North Light in its many moods, but perhaps his most stunning picture is "Dusk at North Light" where purple clouds hover over the lighthouse, framing it, with the golden light of late afternoon glancing off the dunes. There is hardly a better spot than this for a romantic sunset picnic. [DETAILS]

Southeast Light

A must-do on Block Island is a visit to the Southeast Light, the stately brick lighthouse that presides over the terra-cotta colored clay cliffs of Mohegan Bluffs. Here, erosion has bitten into the overhang so much that in 1993, the lighthouse was moved 300 feet back from the bluff. There is no more romantic spot to watch the sunrise than this classic lighthouse that presides over endless miles of sea. [DETAILS]

Block Island Chamber of Commerce

Only 11 square miles, but what treasures. Pristine beaches ... wild roses ... steep red-clay cliffs overlooking an ocean that stretches toward Portugal. Kayakers glimpse rare birds dotting hundreds of freshwater ponds. Cyclists pedal up Spring Street to Southeast Light for a breathtaking view of Mohegan Bluffs, or ride to the end of Corn Neck Road, where a 20-minute walk through the sand (do it barefoot) heads to North Light. When you go, stand quietly and listen to the seagulls cry above this granite building set among rolling dunes. Here, you’ll understand the sea just a bit better. [DETAILS]