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IssuesMay/June 2009Interact10 Things to DoYankee Recommends: Ten Great Weekends

Portland, ME, Weekend

by Ian Aldrich

Portland Lighthouse
Portland, Maine

Portland is a mix of things. It's old and new; gritty and chic; polished and weathered: identities, all of them, that combine to give this city a flavor all its own. And although its working flavor remains, the Old Port has also been creatively re-imagined as a tourist hotspot, where you can pick up an original Angela Adams rug (the designer calls Portland home) or equally stunning pottery at the Maine Potter's Market. It's this kind of scene that helps explain why the National Trust for Historic Preservation named Portland one of its "Dozen Distinctive Destinations" in 2003.

Food, of course, is big here, too. And although you'd expect seafood, of course--and some of freshest stuff anywhere in the world can be found in Portland--water views don't preclude this city from serving up more than fish. Mediterranean flavors abound at Fore Street, Italian dominates the menu at the always romantic Cinque Terre, and Spanish Paella awaits at Cailiola's Restaurant, while modern twists on classic American cuisine may be found at Hugo's. Hard choices, indeed. But don't worry. You can always make a return trip.

Yankee's picks for Portland. Click on any destination below for a map and more information.

Fore Street

The plates that come from chef Sam Hayward's kitchen carry strong Mediterranean influences, but the ingredients and simplicity are undeniably coastal Maine. Fore Street's signature dish, for example—mussels with garlic and almonds—gives a nod to French and Spanish cuisine, but the orange nuggets of cold-water mussels coaxed from their blue-black shells are all about the briny seas near Brunswick, where they're harvested by hand. [DETAILS]

Bresca

Krista Desjarlais' prior experience was in desserts, but this woman is a force to be reckoned with, from appetizer to pasta to salad to entrée. Her flavors are bold, but not overwhelming. And her mark is on every dish that leaves Bresca’s teeny kitchen doors. She's made her reputation in this tiny place with dinners such as a honey glazed duck breast. Don’t miss the greens with six-minute egg, charred toast, and pancetta. Desserts are incredible. [DETAILS]

Duck Fat

Golden-brown, Belgian-style potato slices fried in duckfat are the star here. They’re a perfect accompaniment to panini (on Standard Baking Co.’s bread), homemade soda, ferocious coffee, and extra-thick milkshakes. [DETAILS]

Hugo's

Chef Rob Evans is having a good time. After years of cooking gigs that had him bouncing back and forth between Maine and Hawaii, Rob has developed a style and a philosophy that he calls "new American." He uses his French, Italian, and Japanese cooking skills on "foods within the region that work together, while being creative and fun about it. I think about the ingredients, then build from there." [DETAILS]

Gilbert's Chowder House

[DETAILS]

Maple's Organic Desserts

With a new shop in the heart of Portland's Old Port, Maple's has it made that much easier for the rest of us to explore their sweet creations. Everything’s handmade, including the gelato. Try the waffle-bowl delight with nuts, whipped cream, and local maple syrup ($5). And grab some snickerdoodles or ginger-lemon cookies to tide you over until your next stop. For a little mid-afternoon pick-me-up, don't miss the assortment of locally micro-roasted coffees. [DETAILS]

Reader CommentsRSS

Comment from Jenifer Lewis on April 29, 2009

Don't forget the Eastland Hotel, which has a bar at the very top (called, logically enough, Top of the East) offering the best views around, including Mount Washington on a clear day. The menu has a nice array of offerings (e.g. cheese & fruit plate) that are nice for noshing with a drink while you admire the views. The last time I was there (Jan '09) it was closed for renovations but it should have re-opened by now and I'm looking forward to seeing the new version.

Comment from Marthalie Thurston on June 15, 2009

I recall the story of the SS Okay L Alexander and a dear family friend, Captain Raymond Lewis remaining aboard till all crew members were ashore after a near tragedy off of Portland.In years to come my father would captain ships into Portland and mother and I would drive from Boston to Portland to watch the ship come into the harbor and dock. Portland has been much like a second home of my childhood. Much has changed as times pass however Portland is a destination for all. Something for everybody! Thank you for the article.

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