Issues → May/June 2009 → Interact → 10 Things to Do → Ten Great Weekends →

Portland, ME, Weekend

by Ian Aldrich

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Photograph of Portland, ME
Submitted by Moses Sawyer

Credit: Roxie Zwicker

Portland, Maine

Portland is a mix of things. It's old and new; gritty and chic; polished and weathered: identities, all of them, that combine to give this city a flavor all its own. And although its working flavor remains, the Old Port has also been creatively re-imagined as a tourist hotspot, where you can pick up an original Angela Adams rug (the designer calls Portland home) or equally stunning pottery at the Maine Potter's Market. It's this kind of scene that helps explain why the National Trust for Historic Preservation named Portland one of its "Dozen Distinctive Destinations" in 2003.

Food, of course, is big here, too. And although you'd expect seafood, of course--and some of freshest stuff anywhere in the world can be found in Portland--water views don't preclude this city from serving up more than fish. Mediterranean flavors abound at Fore Street, Italian dominates the menu at the always romantic Cinque Terre, and Spanish Paella awaits at Cailiola's Restaurant, while modern twists on classic American cuisine may be found at Hugo's. Hard choices, indeed. But don't worry. You can always make a return trip.

Yankee's picks for Portland. Click on any destination below for a map and more information.

Fore Street

The plates that come from chef Sam Hayward's kitchen carry strong Mediterranean influences, but the ingredients and simplicity are undeniably coastal Maine. Fore Street's signature dish, for example—mussels with garlic and almonds—gives a nod to French and Spanish cuisine, but the orange nuggets of cold-water mussels coaxed from their blue-black shells are all about the briny seas near Brunswick, where they're harvested by hand. [DETAILS]

Bresca

Krista Desjarlais' prior experience was in desserts, but this woman is a force to be reckoned with, from appetizer to pasta to salad to entrée. Her flavors are bold, but not overwhelming. And her mark is on every dish that leaves Bresca’s teeny kitchen doors. She's made her reputation in this tiny place with dinners such as a honey glazed duck breast. Don’t miss the greens with six-minute egg, charred toast, and pancetta. Desserts are incredible. [DETAILS]

Duck Fat

Golden-brown, Belgian-style potato slices fried in duckfat are the star here. They’re a perfect accompaniment to panini (on Standard Baking Co.’s bread), homemade soda, ferocious coffee, and extra-thick milkshakes. [DETAILS]

Hugo's

Chef Rob Evans is having a good time. After years of cooking gigs that had him bouncing back and forth between Maine and Hawaii, Rob has developed a style and a philosophy that he calls "new American." He uses his French, Italian, and Japanese cooking skills on "foods within the region that work together, while being creative and fun about it. I think about the ingredients, then build from there." [DETAILS]

Gilbert's Chowder House

[DETAILS]

Maple's Organic Desserts

With a new shop in the heart of Portland's Old Port, Maple's has it made that much easier for the rest of us to explore their sweet creations. Everything’s handmade, including the gelato. Try the waffle-bowl delight with nuts, whipped cream, and local maple syrup ($5). And grab some snickerdoodles or ginger-lemon cookies to tide you over until your next stop. For a little mid-afternoon pick-me-up, don't miss the assortment of locally micro-roasted coffees. [DETAILS]

The Point Oceanfront Dining at Black Point Inn

Rely on chef Trap Landry for the best country-style pâté and salads that highlight Maine’s produce at this white-tablecloth dining room by the sea. Local meats, fish, and fruits dominate the delicious menu. [DETAILS]

Cinque Terre

Located in Portland's Old Port, Cinque Terre is steered by the passion and tastes of Chef Lee Skawinski, who makes periodic pilgrimages to Italy to help keep his menu fresh and surprising. Here, the menu offerings are refined Italian classics. [DETAILS]

Joe's Boathouse

As you eat, ferries and fishing boats pass by, tankers off-load oil into the Canadian pipeline, and pleasure boaters dock and come in for a meal. There’s nothing gourmet about the food, but at lunchtime it’s a great place for a burger and a beer, a grilled crab and avocado sandwich, or a local favorite called The Zook -- shaved chicken in a tortilla wrap with Swiss cheese, tomatoes, bacon, and caper mayonnaise -- all served with co-owner and chef Nate Chalaby’s homemade potato chips. [DETAILS]

Caiola's Restaurant

Some of Portland’s most creative chefs have migrated from the Old Port into the cozier environs of the city’s other neighborhoods, creating new culinary focal points. Such is the case with Caiola’s in Portland’s West End. Abby Harmon, who spent 15 years at the Old Port’s acclaimed Street & Co., opened this bistro in the fall of 2005 with her partner, Lisa Vaccaro (it’s named after Lisa’s grandmother). They serve up soul-satisfying, European-influenced comfort food expertly prepared. Look for dishes such as pan-fried flatiron steak, crispy duck, and—for those less Continental—a memorable hamburger. The Caesar salad with spiced fried oysters has emerged as the spot’s oft-raved-about signature dish. [DETAILS]

Sengchai Thai

Suwanna Truong was a familiar face at Seng Thai for years, one of the first and best-loved Thai restaurants in Portland. After efforts to open another storefront met with tragedy (a fire) several years ago, Truong returned to Thailand to rethink what do. Before long, she realized she needed to come back to launch a new restaurant in what she calls "a city with heart." Portland is amid a thriving Asian restaurant renaissance, but Sengchai, which opened in 2003, is again among the favorites. [DETAILS]

Inn on Peaks Island

Why choose between island life and urban life when you can get the best of both worlds at The Inn on Peaks Island? This inn, with just six suites, has a laid-back island sensibility yet is just 12 minutes by ferry from downtown Portland. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, and the view from the front porch is enticing. Relax with a refreshing microbrew (the inn is owned by the founder of the Shipyard Brewing Company and has its own cask-conditioned ale system) while you watch the sun set beyond the ferry wharf. [DETAILS]

Eighth Maine Guest House

This quirky, old-fashioned coastal guest house was established in 1891 as a place where members of the 8th Maine Volunteer Regiment, veterans of the Civil War, could hold reunions. Rooms here are furnished like Grandmother's house, if you had the sort of grandmother who never threw anything away. Some guest rooms sit right along the rocky shore; expect the early sunrise to come glinting into your room before you're ready. That's OK, since there's plenty to do on a long island day. [DETAILS]

Percy Inn

Hosted by hotel critic-turned-innkeeper Dale Northrup (he has written 24,000 hotel reviews in more than 70 countries and nearly two dozen consumer travel books). An 1830 Federal-style brick rowhouse at Longfellow Square in Portland's Historic District. Immerse yourself among landmark buildings anchored by antiques shops, coffeehouses, restaurants, and performance venues. Amenity-rich rooms and historic suites feature phones and fax machines, a TV/VCR, CD player, wet bar, and stocked refrigerators, plus a bricked courtyard, sundeck, and parking. Yankee Magazine Travel Guide Editors' Choice 2004. Named "Best B&B in New England" in September 2005 Yankee Magazine. [DETAILS]

Angela Adams

Cocktails rock and martinis look marvelous in cool "Satin Frost" glassware ($32/set of four rocks glasses; $35/set of two martini glasses). [DETAILS]

Maine Potter's Market

Located in the heart of the Old Port, the Maine Potter’s Market has been offering lovely and one-of-a-kind pieces since 1978. The state's largest pottery cooperative showcases a diverse range of talent from Maine's small towns and big cities alike. It's the perfect place to pick up a delicate sushi plate or a vibrantly colored serving platter for that hard-to-please relative. [DETAILS]