Issues → May/June 2009 → Interact → 10 Things to Do → Yankee Recommends: Ten Great Weekends →

Providence, RI, Weekend

by Justin Shatwell

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Providence's unique identity is perhaps best experienced strolling along Benefit Street. Running along a ridge looking down on the capitol, it's one of the oldest streets in Providence. The Rhode Island Historical Society offers tours throughout the summer that explore some of the historic buildings dotting the hill, such as the John Brown House and the Providence Athenaeum. But alongside these antiquities is the Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design, where you can see the works of both students and the masters who inspired them. It's an exhilarating juxtaposition, as RISD's faculty and alumni are on the cutting edge of design. The styles they pioneer in this quiet corner of Providence are mimicked around the world.

RISD-produced items -- from home decor to jewelry -- are also found in many of the local shops, adding an extra flare to an already-vibrant shopping scene. As the city continues to reinvent itself, it invites visitors to do the same. Thayer Street offers an assortment of unique, hip shops where you can spruce up your image. Try ZuZu's Petals for some new clothes, or head downtown to Martina & Company for jewelry. If you're looking to redo your house, Figments and Butterfields are good places to start, but make sure to stop by the always-surprising RISD Works as well.

Once you're downtown, visit Waterplace Park, which runs along the city's scenic canals. Exposing those canals (once paved over Providence's rivers) has been the centerpiece of Providence's renaissance, enticing thousands of visitors a year to enjoy this serene landmark. The spectacle is especially interesting during the city's WaterFire event, when lighted braziers scattered across the canals lend the city a romantic ambience. For a unique date, contact La Gondola for a romantic boat tour for two.

When it's time to eat, you'll have plenty of options. Home to five colleges, Providence has plenty of cheap but tasty options that appeal to students and tourists alike. Spike's Junkyard Dogs, for instance, elevates the humble hotdog to an affordable art form. But if you're looking for an excuse to get dressed up, just head downtown. The neighborhoods surrounding the state house and on nearby Federal Hill are overflowing with swanky establishments. Venda Ravioli offers a taste of Providence's Italian roots, while Gracie's is an excellent choice for your obligatory fresh-fish dinner during your trip to the Ocean State.

Downtown is also home to the finest lodgings. The Providence Biltmore is a landmark in and of itself. Known as the "Grand Dame," this historic hotel evokes the glamorous excesses of the Jazz Age while providing all the modern amenities. For something a little homier, try the Mowry-Nicholson House or the Christopher Dodge House, two renovated mansions run by State House Inns. Both are reasonably priced and offer the quaint experience of a country bed-and-breakfast in the heart of metropolitan Providence.

Yankee's picks for places in Providence. Click on any destination below for a map and more information.

Providence Biltmore

"The Grand Dame of Providence", the Providence Biltmore Hotel is the epitome of charm and elegance. Located in the center of the Capital City in Rhode Island, the hotel is in close proximity to all that the city has to offer. The Providence Biltmore Hotel is the preferred destination for the discerning traveler looking for a quality experience and impeccable service beyond the myriad of Rhode Island Hotels. The hotel currently boasts 289 richly appointed guest rooms all featuring King or California King Beds. More than $10 million in renovations over the past three years have restored the hotel to its original glamour for which it is world famous and added the most up-to-date technology and amenities. The perfect venue for business meetings, private functions, weddings, special occasions and just plain relaxation. The Providence Biltmore awaits your pleasure. [DETAILS]

State House Inns

Hotel chains love Providence, but not everyone who visits the city wants to stay in a big hotel. For people who prefer historic inns, the State House Inns group offers two comfortable alternatives: the Christopher Dodge House (11 West Park St.; providence-hotel.com) and the Mowry-Nicholson House (57 Brownell St.; providence-suites.com). The Dodge House is the more elegant, an 1859 Federal-style brick townhouse with high-ceilinged rooms and a cozy brick-walled breakfast room. Both inns are under the same management and ownership, and located within an easy walk of the State House and the Providence Place mall. [DETAILS]

Gracie's

Chef Joe Hafner makes simple, ingredient-driven meals, with a strong focus on locally caught seafood. His menu follows the seasons, but if you're really lucky, you may be able to get some of his pickled vegetables, too. [DETAILS]

Venda Ravioli

Costantino's Venda Ravioli is authentic Italian cuisine in Providence, Rhode Island. In this quaint and charming store you will find anything from tortellini, to fine Italian cheeses, to delicious wine. Make sure to stop by and explore the taste of Italy! [DETAILS]

Spike's Junkyard Dogs

The signature "Junkyard Dog" is topped with pickles, spicy peppers, house-made mustard, and scallions—not for the faint of heart. Sauerkraut, teriyaki sauce, and buffalo-wing sauce and blue cheese are also on the menu. Or, for the purists among you, try one au naturel for a fresh taste of one of these smoky, spicy, 100 percent beef (no fillers, no sweeteners) wonders. [DETAILS]

La Gondola

Seeing the city from the water, you get a real sense of recent improvements, and a ride down a river on an authentic 36-foot Venetian gondola is not something you do every day. Tote along a bottle of wine to go with the complimentary cheese and crackers, and enjoy the view. The gondolier -- yielding a hefty 14-foot oar -- does all the work. [DETAILS]

WaterFire Providence

The elements are basic: water and fire. But in the hands of artist Barnaby Evans, Providence’s WaterFire wraps thousands of onlookers in an atmo-sphere of mystery and, at times, even awe. The event begins at dusk with the ritualistic lighting of some 100 braziers afloat on Providence’s three rivers. Throughout the evening, until past midnight, visitors stroll the city, enchanted by flickering light and music. [DETAILS]

Figments

At this primo paper store with its extensive selection of letterpress stationery and invitations, owner and RISD grad Peggy Lo also presents a mix of modern home accents and gifts. Think screen-printed tea towels and pillows with Zen designs, storage totes from Hable Construction, and one-of-a-kind artworks. [DETAILS]

ZuZu's Petals

If you’re traveling with a teenager, tiny ZuZu’s (popular with the city’s hordes of students, who frequent this busy area) will be an interesting place to check out together. The jewelry is cool, and the clothes are hip. From full-length gowns in dreamy colors to wee tops and skirts everything is happily wedged into a space about the size of a closet. [DETAILS]

Butterfield

This upscale home furnishings store in the burgeoning Downcity shopping district stocks Mitchell Gold furniture, John Derian découpage, and a well-edited collection of lamps, home accents, and design books. Its loftlike setting, with soaring ceilings and exposed brick walls, will make you want to move right in—or at least linger awhile. [DETAILS]

Providence Athenaeum

The Providence Athenaeum is the city's oldest cultural center, having shaped Providence over the centuries into the city it is today. Included in its delights are a library, a museum, and a bookstore--all sure to enlighten one's mind and broaden one's horizons. When in town, remember to stop by the Providence Athenaeum! [DETAILS]

John Brown House

For a short stretch of road, Benefit Street has defined much of the story and identity of Providence. Explore it with the Rhode Island Historical Society on a pair of tours starting from the John Brown House. One covers the mansion itself, enlightening guests about one of Providence’s most influential (and controversial) citizens. The other is a 90-minute jaunt to the other famous homes and civic structures lining this idyllic street. [DETAILS]

Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design

It's the 20th largest art museum in the country and one of New England's best-kept secrets. [DETAILS]

Benefit Street

Stroll through the heart of historic Providence, leaving plenty of time to loiter at each corner and gawk at the 18thand 19th-century homes. The John Brown House (nearby on Power Street) and the reading room at the Providence Athenaeum merit extra time. [DETAILS]