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Weekend: Quebec City

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Or stroll along Rue St-Paul, a densely packed "antiques corridor," and home to Le Café St-Malo, where a crazed French chef will cook you a "bouillabaisse to remember." Farther down the street is my favorite upscale T-shirt shop, Le Roquet, where tight-fitting tees feature bandito cats and philosophical carrots.

Heading south again, a midday stop at Le Petit Cochon Dingue lets you check out the Christmas decorations (rolling pins), sample country-style soup with a slice of quiche, and take a gander at the fresh gateaux and tartlettes, including the tempting Québécois specialty, tarte au sucre (sugar pie).

A vertiginous climb back to Upper Town returns us to Rue St-Jean and Le Capitole, our extremely cool hotel, where our room is a cross between Greenwich Village studio apartment and Maine lighthouse. Our two-level nest has gargoyle-like views over the Old City, a three-volume set of Les Misérables for sale in the tiny living room, and a skylight over the bed, smack in the midst of a painted, stormy sky.

In the morning, we'll take our customary window seat in the dining room, order up a bowl of café au lait, sample some fresh granola scattered over tangy yogurt, and watch the skaters across the street at Place d'Youville. It's snowing. People walking by look fantastic, bundled in their down, fur, and leather confections. Later we might check out cross-country skiing on the nearby Plains of Abraham or stop into the Frontenac for a warming glass of anything, looking out over the frozen St. Lawrence. Whether we're inside or out, it feels as though we've come in from the cold.

WHEN YOU GO: Quebec City

Quebec is celebrated for its beauty, its history, and its Old World charm. Join Yankee as we tour this vibrant city on the St. Lawrence, where a unique culture has flourished for more than 400 years. Below are some of our favorite stops along the way. For more information on lodging, dining, shopping, and area activities, contact Quebec City Tourism at 877-783-1608, quebecregion.com/e, or Tourisme Quebec at 877-266-5687, >bonjourquebec.com. For information on Quebec's world-famous Winter Carnival, January 29 to February 14 this year, call 866-422-7628 or visit: carnaval.qc.ca/home.html

WHERE TO STAY

Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac
866-540-4460
fairmont.com/frontenac

Le Capitole De Quebec
800-363-4040
lecapitole.com/en

WHERE TO EAT

Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens
418-692-1627
auxancienscanadiens.qc.ca/Homeang.html

Pub Saint-Alexandre
418-694-0015
pubstalexandre.com/en.html

Le Casse Crepe-Breton
418-692-0438

Le Patriarche
418-692-5488
lepatriarche.com

Chez Temporel
418-694-1813

Le Petit Cochon Dingue
418-694-0303
lepetitcochondingue.com

Le Cafe St-Malo
418-692-2004

WHERE TO SHOP

Simons
418-692-3630
simons.ca/index.aspx

Archambault
418-694-2088
archambault.ca

Atelier La Pomme
418-692-2875
lapomme.qc.ca

La Chasse-Galerie
418-692-3366
chassegalerie.com

Le Roquet/Vetements 90 Degres
418-694-9914

WHAT TO SEE

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