Issues → July/August 2010 → Food →
In Review: Briny Bursts of Flavor
by Annie B. Copps
Locals told us about the Brewster Fish House, a Cape Cod gem that has recently seen a change of chefs. Martha Kane is in the kitchen of this retail fish market-turned-hotspot restaurant. We wondered what would separate this eatery from the hundreds of others that dot the Cape.
Could be the chowder or the lobster bisque: Both are subtle and silky-rich, the chowder layered with sweet and briny bursts of fresh clams and the bisque laced with a bit of sherry and chunks of meat. Or perhaps it's the local flounder dusted with fines herbes in a tomato-and-fennel broth. Or maybe the garlicky clams with pasta--after sampling that dish one night, we ordered two more to take home.
If you can break from the beach at lunch, indulge in the fried-seafood options--clams, oysters, scallops, or calamari. Whichever you choose, it's fresh from local waters, and the kitchen respects its handy source of ingredients. Get there early and bring patience or a book; this spot doesn't take reservations and the dining room is small.
Brewster Fish House
2208 Main St., Brewster, MA
Lunch entrées: from $8
Dinner entrées: from $18
508-896-7867; brewsterfish.com
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