Issues → May/June 2011 → Features → Food Trails: New England's Culinary Legacies →
Massachusetts Food Trail: Chowder
by Amy Traverso
As long as there have been fishing and cooking, there has been chowder. In one form or another, over many centuries, coastal cooks have served up some variation of local seafood simmered in a thick liquid—a dish more stew than soup. On the northwest coast of France, 17th-century fishermen cooked their concoctions in large cauldrons called chaudières, and some say this is the origin of the word "chowder." Others say the word comes from jowter, a 16th-century Cornish term for "fishmonger."
But no matter. Chowder is ours now, an object of fierce loyalty, and a creamy clam stew—thickened with potatoes and milk, seasoned with bacon and onions and brine, and served with common crackers—holds a particular place of honor in Massachusetts. Maybe it's because the waters off Cape Cod are prime breeding grounds for the quahogs that are its central ingredient; maybe it's because Bay Staters take pride in panning the clear-broth chowder of neighboring Rhode Island. All that matters is that they love it enough to produce some noteworthy renditions all over the state.
Chatham Pier Fish Market
Served in takeout containers, this chowder puts on no airs. But it has incredible fresh-from-the-sea flavor, a hint of smoke from the bacon, and just the right amount of milk to thicken it without overwhelming it. 45 Barcliff Ave. Extension, Chatham. 508-945-3474; chathampierfishmarket.com
The Bite
Between the creamy chowder, stuffed with chopped quahogs and accented with sweet onions, and the sunset views over the harbor, this little shingled Martha's Vineyard shack draws a hungry crowd during peak season. 29 Basin Road, Menemsha. 508-645-9239; thebitemenemsha.com
Turner Fisheries
The oyster crackers are house-made, and the stew is a hearty mixture of quahogs and cherrystones for intense clam flavor. A light hand with the flour keeps the chowder saucy, not gloppy. Westin Copley Place, 10 Huntington Ave., Boston. 617-424-7425; turnersboston.com
Kelly's
For a place that branded itself on its meat, Kelly's does surprisingly well with seafood. We found a sprightly, creamy broth, rich in potatoes; it's a bit lighter on the clams, but fully aromatic and delicious. Locations in Allston, Danvers, Medford, Natick, Revere (where it all began), and Saugus. 781-233-5700; kellysroastbeef.com
Farmer Brown's Farm Stand
Farmer Bob Brown and his wife, Kathy, have found their true calling in the chowder they serve at this year-round market. It's a thick, stick-to-your-ribs style, supremely creamy, but fresh and brimming with clams. 210 Maple St., Middleton. 978-774-7110; farmerbrownsfarmstand.com
Neptune Oyster
This tiny North End eatery serves some of the best seafood in Boston. The chowder trades the usual thickened base for a vibrant, intensely clammy broth. The secret? It's lightly enriched with milk, cream, and potatoes and accented with a hint of oregano. 63 Salem St., Boston. 617-742-3474; neptuneoyster.com
Reader Comments
Comment from Joe Foster on July 21, 2011
I remember from growing up in New England that fish chowder was always done with a thin milk-based broth, not a thick one. When I moved to the midwest, I encountered the \"thin mashed potato broth\" that you reference. Has New England changed the consistency of its wonderful chowders to please the midwestern palate? I hope not.
Comment from James Spencer on July 21, 2011
Who cares about MA. Tell us about R.I. !!
Comment from Doreen Jones on July 21, 2011
My Grandfather and the rest of the Beach family in Ct. made their chowder with the clear broth and I would die for some now. Sadly they are all deceased and this Yankee never did pay attention or get the recipe. I prefer it rather than the milk based chowder.
Comment from Kim Elliott on July 21, 2011
My oldest daugther is my chowder girl. We live in upstate NY and this girl loves her New England Clam Chowder. She can tell u which place from here to New England has the best. And rigth know after last week in Andover, Ma. She will tell u it would be a small place in Rockport, Ma Named The Hot Dog Cafe\' has the best clam chowder. P.S. She did not gave us a taste of it.LOL
Comment from marie borden on July 21, 2011
My mom made the best chowder in the world ! Dad shucked fresh clams for her and she added cheese and cooking wine at the end ! Miss ya mom and dad !!!
Comment from ginny mcdonald on July 21, 2011
My mom used to make wonderful fish or clam chowder made with milk, not cream, and not thickened. It was the best. I still prefer this to the thick chowder.
Comment from Jeannette Dube-Pomer on July 21, 2011
The BEST chowder is made from quahaugs as they have a very \"sea-taste\" that cannot be beat. We always lived on the island of Saquish, off the coast of Plymouth, and the children would go out digging on the flats. The broth is left un-thickened with only whole milk and some butter. Try it...it is WONDERFUL !!
Comment from Donald E. Nichols on July 21, 2011
The Best fish chowder is made using Maine Haddock, Maine grown potatoes, seasoned and cooked slowly in clam juice, and chicken broth. When cooled add half and half, than reheat, can\'t be beat.
Comment from Nancy Ames on July 22, 2011
I ,too, like many others like \"thin\" chowder made with whole milk. The chowder that is thickened has almost a floury taste which I find unaaceptable, The Lobster Pound at Lincolnville Beach, ME makes tasty fish chowder in the thin style, Also on Cape Cod. the best clam chowder I ever had was at the FLUME Restaurant in Mashpee when it was in business, They definitely knew how to get the best out of quahogs! Boy, do I miss that place!
Comment from Betsy Moore on July 25, 2011
I too, prefer a thin broth. My all time favorite comes from \"Petey\'s Summertime\" in No. Hampton, NH.(or is it Rye?) Anyway, I have relocated to SC, and when in NE, that\'s on my \"must\" list! \"You can take the girl out of NE, but you can\'t take NE out of the girl!!\"
Comment from Rosalind Willett on July 25, 2011
Now how about doing Rhode Island chowder with its clear broth.
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