Frieda prefers to use homemade stocks in her soups, although she will use canned broth in a pinch. "If I have a chicken or turkey carcass and don't have time to make the stock from it, I'll just break it up and freeze it, then cook the stock whenever it's convenient. Soup-making has its own philosophy."
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
4 cups chicken stock
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 cups milk
2 ounces vermicelli, broken up
Wash the leeks and cut them down to 2 inches below where the green leaves separate from the whole stem. Slice the lower stems and bulbs lengthwise in half, then crosswise about 1/4-inch thick. Rinse thoroughly and drain. Melt butter in a heavy soup pot and saut
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