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Best Ethnic Food in New England

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SUSHI, Oishii
A sushi dish may be a mound of rice with a slice of seafood draped over it or wrapped in a cone-shaped piece of nori (seaweed), or a "handroll," or served lightly torched ("bana sushi"). All are in extraordinarily fine form at Oishii, owing to the super-fresh fish and the artisans who craft each piece. 612 Hammond St., Chestnut Hill, MA; 617-277-7888

DUMPLINGS + POTSTICKERS, Taiwan Café, King Fung Garden, China Pearl
Chinese dumplings are boiled, steamed, or pan-fried, with the latter called "potstickers." Enormous, pan-fried, pork-filled ones can be had at Taiwan and the slightly smaller vegetable ones at King Fung Garden; both versions are delicious. Delicate steamed ones, in many shapes, stuffings, and adornments, are found on the dim sum menu at China Pearl. Dipping sauces range from thinned and gingery soy sauce to a fiery hot sauce.Taiwan Café, 34 Oxford St., Boston, MA; 617-426-8181. King Fung Garden, 74 Kneeland St., Boston, MA; 617-357-5262. China Pearl, 9 Tyler St., Boston, MA; 617-426-4338

SUNDUBU, ChoCho's
Thin slices of soft tofu, vegetables, and a raw egg broken into a simmering, chili-laced broth are the basics of sundubu ("pure tofu"), a Korean stew. Chef Sang Cho makes seven kinds at ChoCho's, including one nod to New England: lobster sundubu. 1815 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, MA. 617-792-5499; chochoscambridge.com

LINGUINE WITH CLAM SAUCE, Mike's Kitchen
Drawing on the Ocean State's excellent and continuous source of fresh littlenecks and its strong Italian American heritage, linguine with clam sauce is a Rhode Island institution. White or red, the best recipes put chopped clams in a garlic-laden "gravy" and whole 'necks along the edge of a plate of al dente noodles. Mike's Kitchen does all that and more. 170 Randall St., Cranston, RI; 401-946-5320

BLINI, Vernissage
Closely related to blintzes and crêpes, true Russian blini are yeast-raised and melt-in-your-mouth light. The blinis at Vernissage are served as appetizers, alongside caviar or filled with chicken, wild mushrooms, or seafood. The dessert blintzes have sour-cherry fillings and are drizzled with chocolate sauce. 1627 Beacon St., Brookline, MA. 617-566-3340; vernissagerestaurant.com

MOMOS, Rangzen Shaped like tiny coin purses, these dumplings, indigenous to Tibet and Nepal, release a wonderful fragrance of ginger, coriander, or cumin with each bite, enhancing the fillings of beef, chicken, veggies, tofu, or cheese. Momos may be steamed or fried; they come with various sauces or may be served with soup. 24 Pearl St., Cambridge, MA; 617-354-8881

KNISHES and LATKES, Barry's Village Deli
Sephardic or Ashkenazic? Jewish food means different things to different people, but a plate that includes a knish (filled savory turnover) and a latka (potato pancake), plus lokshen kugel (noodle pudding) and chopped liver--a.k.a. the "Jewish Pupu Platter" at Barry's Village Deli--is food everyone can agree on. 6 Windsor Road, Waban, MA. 617-527-8244; barrysvillagedeli.com

PUPUSAS, el salvador
These soft, thin, tortilla-like cornmeal pancakes, a national treat in El Salvador, are filled and quick-fried. The pupusas at El Salvador are a delightful combination of crispy exterior, moist cornmeal, and molten cheese on the inside. 514 Burnside Ave., East Hartford, CT; 860-528-2442