Brodetto was originally a stew made from whatever catch Italian fishermen couldn’t sell. Next to such simple fare, the luscious brodetto served here ($22.95)—full of mussels, clams, shrimp, and fish in a fragrant tomato sauce over squidink pasta—is a cathedral beside a country chapel. It’s a rustic and hearty seafood lover’s dream dish. Entrées: from $14.
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