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Wickford, Rhode Island | Could You Live Here?

Wickford, Rhode Island | Could You Live Here?
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Water is at the heart of Wickford, Rhode Island, where you’ll shop to the tune of gulls, take your morning coffee within sight of swans, and find the harbor a constant companion.

Wickford, Rhode Island
Photo/Art by Julie Bidwell
Blue skies make a perfect day for sailing out of Wickford Harbor.

Wickford Village can seem like an island. Streets uncoil like rope, with sea captains’ houses leaning back from the sidewalks and antique homes clotting the village. There are water views in all directions, even in the slivers between buildings. The name itself feels old, opening a portal. Maybe John Updike, whose distant relative (another John Updike) had a house on Pleasant Street, based The Witches of Eastwick on this shimmering little divot in Narragansett Bay; maybe he didn’t. But it’s easy enough to picture something ancient unfolding in the shadows of so many clapboarded relics of the 18th century.

It’s a safe harbor, buffered by the land, spliced through with a busy Main Street that’s been called “One of America’s 10 Best.” Shade trees line up like spectators at a parade, overhanging rose-brick storefronts. Dogs amble the sidewalks with people in tow, and it’s impossible to stroll without stooping to pet something. Just 25 minutes from the bustle of Providence and Newport, but with a sensibility that still celebrates men like Remington Straight and Jabez Bullock. Their nameplates, fixed on historic houses, remind us that we, too, are merely walkers through history.

Wickford, Rhode Island
Photo/Art by Julie Bidwell
Wickford Cove glimpsed from a grassy backyard.

Wickford attracts “people whose hobby and love is restoring houses,” says Sue Macy, a Main Street resident, who with her husband, Bill, restored their first Wickford house 42 years ago.

Wickford suggests candlewicks and dim lamplight, pewter dishes and brick ovens. An Updike ancestor, Lodowick Updike, plotted out the town in 1709. Revolutionary War–era houses still stand, wavy glass facing a harbor where sailboats dock in place of tall ships. Daytrippers can sail into town, tie up for a few hours, and sniff out the bones of history, following the tributaries of wobbly little streets as they run, inevitably, back to the sea. For water is at the heart of Wickford, where you’ll cross paths daily with the harbor, shop to the tune of gulls, and take your morning coffee within sight of swans.

Wickford, Rhode Island
Photo/Art by Julie Bidwell
Wickford’s unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Al Rubin, patrols Main Street.
Wickford, Rhode Island
Photo/Art by Julie Bidwell
Shade trees line Main Street.

The Setting

Three streets bunch together like a fist at the center of town, before reaching toward water. Main Street leads to Gardner’s Wharf Seafood Market, where stacks of crusted traps wait for work. Brown Street follows the harbor, with access to the Town Dock and restaurants that straddle the view. West Main Street (Scenic 1A) curves past salt marshes. Elsewhere, Pleasant Street ends in a boat launch, and bright kayaks dart like minnows escaping from the Kayak Centre on Phillips Street. Some call it “Nantucket at a fraction of the cost.” Hard to believe that Route 1, lined with shopping plazas, is just minutes away—handy, but out of sight.

Real Estate

With one of the densest collections of 18th-century houses in New England, it’s easy to fall hard for a historic home. Buyers from Connecticut and New York consider Wickford’s waterfront a relative steal, although demand is on the rise, says agent Ginny Gorman of Phillips Post Road Realty in North Kingstown.

“A Wickford home buyer looking to pick up a deal at $400,000 can be a possibility if the timing is right,” Gorman says. “There’s no fixed range; it’s house-dependent.” That said, she zeroes in on a prime favorite location: “The historic side streets from Bay to Washington, and Pleasant to Esmond Avenue, are all lined with historic homes. I call them my Fabergé egg collection, because the colors of the paints can mesmerize you.”

Wickford, Rhode Island
Photo/Art by Julie Bidwell
Main Street resident Sue Macy (left) and friend Barb Carroll stroll with the requisite Wickford accessories, friendly canines.

Please Note: This information was accurate at the time of publication. When planning a trip, please confirm details by directly contacting any company or establishment you intend to visit.

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Annie Graves

Author:

Annie Graves

Biography:

Annie Graves is a regular contributor to Yankee. A New Hampshire native, she has been a writer and editor for over 25 years, while composing music and writing young adult novels. Find out more about Annie at anniegraves.com.
Updated Thursday, June 19th, 2014
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3 Responses to Wickford, Rhode Island | Could You Live Here?

  1. Yankee fan June 23, 2014 at 11:16 pm #

    Well, it’s phrases like “Streets uncoil like rope” and “shimmering little divot” that keep me coming back to Annie’s stories…she knows how to paint the most vivid images!!

    Such a lovely piece…thank you. Can’t wait for the next!

  2. Eileen June 15, 2016 at 8:05 am #

    Lovely article and pictures! I lived there for five years. It’s a beautiful place during every season of the year. I will always miss you, Wickford, RI!!!!
    Eileen

  3. Kathleen Haveles June 19, 2016 at 8:53 pm #

    My most favorite place in the world! Love everything about it! The setting, the shops, the history and especially Green Ink!!!

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