Spend a Winter Day in New England
A CHARLES STREET IDYLL
Sprawling at the bottom of Beacon Hill, Boston’s Charles Street is my all-time favorite mix of Dickens-meets-M.F.A. sensibilities–where history-laden, crimson-brick sidewalks roll past some of the most meticulously kept and artfully stocked shops in all of this diverse and exciting city.
I prefer to start smack in the middle: at Cafe Vanille, which doles out the richest almond croissants this side of Paris. Thus fueled, it’s across the street to Rugg Road Paper Company to pick up handmade letterpress thank-you cards, and then to neighboring Black Ink to find a few fun-and-funky gifts (frog-shaped piggy banks top the list) for my two toddlers.
Their baubles ought not to rival mine, however, so I head way up the street, swinging by The Ruby Door to try on intricate and lustrous semiprecious gemstone necklaces. (I’m imagining that I can actually afford to pony up and walk out with one.) Then it’s off again to the high numbers and Judith Dowling Asian Art, where I admire a dizzying slew of Eastern antiques. The perfect foil, no doubt, sits over at Koo de Kir (on the corner of Chestnut Street): a cool-but-unpretentious spot stocked with sleek, contemporary home furnishings and accessories that work seamlessly with all manner of classic pieces.
The shopping gods pull me into Crush Boutique for women’s cocktail frocks and designer denim, and then up to Moxie for pretty-but-comfy shoes. They’ll take me all the way down the street to Scampo at The Liberty Hotel for one of chef Lydia Shire’s crispy pizzas and tempura cod cheeks in a room that’s high-energy, legendary, and unbelievably cozy. Very much like the neighborhood it calls home. –Alexandra Hall
The Ruby Door, 617-720-2001; therubydoor.com
Judith Dowling Asian Art, 617-523-5211; judithdowling.com
Koo de Kir, 617-723-8111; koodekir.com
Crush Boutique, 617-720-0010; shopcrushboutique.com
Moxie, 617-557-9991; moxieboston.com
Scampo, 617-536-2100; scampoboston.com
AROUND THE WORLD IN ONE HOUR
The pleasures of Providence’s Benefit Street–its upscale mix of chic shops and trendy restaurants–is well known. For a different kind of variety–this one under one climate-controlled roof, no less–there’s the museum at the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD). Here, curators have done their best to concentrate all of time and space into one convenient location. Stroll down a hall of 19th-century European masters and you’ll dead-end in a room of medieval Christian art. Take a left and you’re surrounded by early Greek artifacts; then up a flight of stairs and you’re immersed in the Far East.
Some have criticized this variety–where modern art sits disturbingly close to Victorian silver settings–as jumbled, but it demonstrates a lesson the school teaches its students: Art is an unfolding process, and the inspiration for the next leap in fashion or design may come from anywhere. At the very least, it might inspire in you a need for an Asian print dress or a Grecian-style urn for the living room and motivate you to brave the cold in search of just one more boutique. –J.S.
RISD Museum of Art, Providence, RI. 401-454-6500; risdmuseum.org
A CHILD’S FIRST SLEIGH RIDE
As my 3-year-old daughter, Ella, and I drive up Maggie Ladd Road, we spy black horses dotting the fresh white snow on either side of us. The scene is like something out of a fairy tale, from the beautiful Friesians themselves to the European-style barns to even the owner, Robert Labrie, who sports a handlebar mustache, giant wool coat, and fur hat. Labrie greets us warmly and is quick to introduce us to his prize stallion, Othello. As he moves the graceful horse around in a wide circle outside, pointing out his lines and the breed’s specific traits, my daughter bends down to gently touch with one of her pink mittens the hoofprints left in the freshly fallen snow.
Labrie leads our sleigh team, Alfons and Diederik, from the barn, the brass bells on their black-leather harnesses tinkling with every stride. We climb into the back seat of an ornate red sleigh and settle in, covering our legs with a cozy brown blanket. Labrie’s booming voice drives us forward, the horses moving fast through an open field of snow before turning into the woods. Sunlight speckles the terrain, hooves kick up fresh powder, and Ella’s smile never leaves her. Neither of us, mother or daughter, wants the afternoon to end. When it does, we head back to the barns under fading afternoon light. We linger some, checking out the yearlings, before making our way home. Yes, I tell her, we will return. –Heather Marcus
Friesians of Majesty, Townshend, VT. 802-365-7526; friesiansofmajesty.com
YOU EARNED IT
Charym (pronounced “sha-REEM”) is a Bhutanese word for beauty and health, but to me, on this late afternoon at Charym Body Temple, it means pampering and indulgence. This Litchfield, Connecticut, spa grew out of a former lumberyard, now luxuriously restored. But the burning sage, branded music, and flowing fabric transport you to an inner sanctum of private serenity. Let it.
You’ve earned these moments. Move into a restorative yoga session that focuses on the journey inside. Experience isn’t necessary–just close your eyes and draw in your breath as yogic lifestyle creator Maureen instructs. All experiences are stored in the body, she says. Let go.
Take time to sip some pomegranate tea and prepare for a light, soothing facial, tagged with familiar scents–was that tarragon? At the same time, reflexologist Kristin massages your feet in an ancient healing technique that reduces stress and renews energy. Now all you have to do is make the difficult choice of a nail-polish hue (pomegranate again) to dress up those comforted toes. The evening is about to begin. And you? You’re ready! –Barbara Hall
Charym Body Temple, Litchfield, CT. 860-567-7795; charym.com
DINNER WITH A VIEW
The Bristol Harbor Inn in Bristol, Rhode Island, is right on the Thames Street docks, and the adjacent DeWolf Tavern–a renovated 1818-era rum warehouse–hangs over the edge, its windows framing Colt State Park across the water and, lookng to the south, Hog Island.
A sunset and early-evening view soothes and relaxes away your day’s cares. Chef Sai Viswanath’s lobster popovers are light as clouds, yet rich with sweet and buttery meat, served alongside tandoori-marinated swordfish. It’s all part of his exotic-yet-restrained, globe-spinning menu, which highlights New England ingredients. A mouthful, yes, and a delicious one at that. –A.B.C.
DeWolf Tavern, Bristol, RI 401-254-2005; dewolftavern.com
AN EVENING GLIDE
The first batch of skaters take to the ice at around 10 in the morning, but really it’s the evening when Frog Pond‘s rink on Boston Common comes to life.
Amid the glowing gilded dome of the Massachusetts State House and the gently lit spire of Park Street Church, skaters of all skills and ages take to the ice, gliding, spinning, and in some cases learning their way around the rink. Teenage girls snapping gum and taking snapshots; teenage boys trying to impress; families; young couples; longtime partners.
There’s hot chocolate here, too, and cappuccinos, and hot apple cider, to help you stay warm. But your goal is to keep moving, gliding, and be a part of this wintry urban scene that’s like no other. –Ian Aldrich
Boston Common Frog Pond Skating Rink, Boston, MA. 617-635-2120; bostoncommonfrogpond.org
TO BED BY FIRELIGHT
Juniper Hill‘s immense Great Hall is hung with original art and graced by the largest of this Vermont inn’s 18 Rumford fireplaces. “There’s a warmth and glow to a real fire,” says innkeeper and co-owner Robert Dean. “It’s like candlelight. Everyone looks better.”
Juniper Hill owes its grace to Maxwell Evarts, the man who built this 28-room Colonial Revival mansion in 1902. A hugely wealthy attorney and railroad industrialist, he helped save the Morgan horse breed; his family helped fund the nearby Cornish Art Colony, across the river in New Hampshire. Which is to say, you’re in good company at Juniper Hill. Fifteen of the 16 guestrooms are named for some of the inn’s famous visitors, including Theodore Roosevelt, Calvin Coolidge, Woodrow Wilson, Maxfield Parrish, and Isadora Duncan. Most are decorated in period-style wallpaper, and all are furnished with a mix of antiques and designer furniture.
Like the firelight itself, accommodations are subtly, genuinely luxurious. Roosevelt’s bathroom features a European air-jetted tub with chroma-light therapy (changing to fit your mood), and most rooms feature deep, clawfoot soaking tubs. No fewer than 12 guestrooms have fireplaces (seven burn wood; five are gas). Each is fitted with a customized mattress, a decanter of sherry, bedside chocolates, fine linens, fluffy robes, and Egyptian-cotton towels.
Don’t miss the Evarts Room–the original master bedroom, with its fireplace in an alcove and a view southeast to Mount Ascutney. Usually obscured by the winter dark by the time guests arrive, this is also the view at breakfast in the Cabernet-colored dining room–warmed, of course, by a glowing hearth. –Christina Tree
Juniper Hill Inn, Windsor, VT. 802-674-5273; juniperhillinn.com